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Smith Rock Route Advice and/or Partners 6/14-6/18
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May 17, 2013
Me
Hello all!

My girlfriend and I will be in Smith in the middle of a two-month road trip on 6/14-6/18 - our second trip to Smith. We'll be camping in the bivy and climbing most days.

If you're interested in climbing with us, please let me know!

If not, I would love to hear your advice on your favorite can't-miss routes/areas. Last year our highlights included Monkey Face West Variation, Wherever I May Roam, Treslar and Moonshine Dihedral.

So far for this trip I've bookmarked Lost In Space, Whit Satin, Zebra/Zion, Kiss of the Lepers, Tale of Two Shitties, and various single-pitches on Christian Brothers, Lower Gorge, Dihedrals, Red Wall, and Morning Glory Wall, but that's purely based on the Falcon guidebook and last year's trip, so I'd love to hear any (positive, constructive) opinions from you locals!

For reference:
- I lead ~5.9/10a trad and follow 10c/d
- I lead 5.10d/11a sport and follow 11b/c
- My girlfriend is just learning to lead over the last year but she's a great climber and fast learner (5.8+ trad/5.10a+ sport)

Cheers and thanks for reading,
-Jason from San Francisco

(forgive me if you see a similar post in other regional sections or a refresh of this post in a few weeks - I am trying to ping locals in each area along our trip!)
Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Mar 27, 2012
211 points
May 20, 2013
Belaying on Calculus Crack.
Hi Jason,

Some routes to bookmark if you haven't already:

Spiderman 5.7 - a fun and exciting 2/3 pitch traditional climb on the backside of Smith.

Magic Light 5.11a - A Smith Rock staple for the 5.11 climber, in June climb early in the morning to avoid the heat and the crowds.

Full 9 Gall Buckets 5.10c - This one is hueco loads of fun. I never see anyone do it for their first time without a big grin on their face coming down.

Pure Palm 5.11a - Unlike any other climb at Smith, a nice break from working the crimps.

The truth is there are great climbs all over. The most important thing to remember in order to enjoy climbing at Smith in the Summer is to let the aspects of the walls dictate your daily climbing schedule. You can climb routes in the dihedrals and morning glory at first light before the suns up. Then go to the backside for morning shade/early afternoon shade. Then work your way over to the front side and follow the shade as it moves its way across the walls back to the morning glory area.

You can also go down to the lower gorge and climb on the east side in the morning before the sun hits it. Then take a lunch break once the sun is overhead and climb on the west side once the sun is blocked again.

Have a great time!
David Mehr
From Lexington, KY
Joined May 1, 2011
56 points
May 20, 2013
Middle
Spiderman Buttress and Lepers are closed for bird nesting. Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
May 20, 2013
Me
Hey guys, thanks for the notes!

We did indeed tick Spiderman last year - super fun. Good to know that Kiss of Lepers will be closed - plenty more to do!

9 Gallon Buckets and Pure Palm were on my list for this trip, so good to hear endorsements for those. I'm adding Magic Light to our list - looks sweet!

We were fortunate last year to get used to the aspects, so that'll help us again this year too! Come on out to climb if you'd like!
Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Mar 27, 2012
211 points
May 20, 2013
One you might not consider, that I enjoy a bunch, is Pack Animal Direct. Technical stemming in a thin dihedral. It's the easy short version of Sunshine.

I'm not very heat tolerant, so any time it gets into the high 60s I do my best to stay cool. My favorite method is to climb early in the morning until about noon, go to the Depot for happy hour during the heat of the day, then climb a bunch after the sun goes down. The added benefit is that it avoids the crowds.

Phillip
Dobson
From Butte, MT
Joined Oct 20, 2011
187 points
May 21, 2013
Me
Hi Phillip,

Thanks, I'll check out that route! Love the Depot and can't wait to suck down some delicious Monkey Face Porters!
Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Mar 27, 2012
211 points
Jun 10, 2013
Top of east buttress
Hi Jason, I will be arriving at smith rock on the 11th. I'm traveling alone so ill be looking for partners when I'm there.

I lead sport up to around 11.b and trad up to about 10.d,

Ill probably see you there!
AlexThomsonF
Joined Dec 25, 2012
5 points
Jun 11, 2013
Me
Hey Alex,

Thanks for the note! We're driving up Thursday and thus not climbing until Friday, but if you'll still be there at that point, please email or text! Would be keen to follow some 10b+ trad stuff if you're interested in leading two. Otherwise if you find a fourth, perhaps we can crag out some single-pitch stuff together? I have a ton of stuff on my list.

We'll be staying in the bivy campground. I'll email you my contact info.
Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Mar 27, 2012
211 points
Jun 11, 2013
Warming up on 5-Gallon Buckets at Smith Rocks
Hi Jason,

I wil be coming down (solo) to Smith to climb Friday and Saturday. Would love to find some buddies to climb with, especially another female (your gf?) I lead sport only, but am open to following trad routes! Im solid leading most 5.10's and looking to push my grade. Have a rope, lots of draws, no trad gear though.
Mimi C
From Government Camp
Joined Jun 7, 2013
11 points
Jun 11, 2013
Me
Hey Mimi,

I emailed you separately. Perhaps if Alex on this post is interested as well, we can have a part of four for a day or more. That would open up the most potential options for multi-pitch or cragging.

I have a big wishlist of routes so I can send those over as well.

Cheers,
-Jason
Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Mar 27, 2012
211 points
Jun 12, 2013
Top of east buttress
Hi to both, I'll be staying at the bivvy campground. Jason I got your message, if I don't get cellphone reception there ill leave a note if there is a notice board. See you there! AlexThomsonF
Joined Dec 25, 2012
5 points
Jun 12, 2013
Me
Cool thanks! Still waiting to here back from Mimi so we shall see. I definitely get cell reception there if that helps. Look forward to meeting you. Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Mar 27, 2012
211 points
Jun 12, 2013
Hey man,
In and out of the Bivy myself ill probably see you there.
Get to Mesa Verde in the mornings, you'll love moons of Pluto, and reason to be while your lady will like cosmos and screaming yellow zonkers. Get on holier than thou while your back there for a sweet 11b
Fish n chips is up on top of shipwreck, gets shade and is a great 10+sport route
Phoenix and Llama walls are also worth checking out.
Jon
Jon Rhoderick
Joined Jul 21, 2009
547 points
Jun 13, 2013
Me
Thanks John! See you there soon! Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Mar 27, 2012
211 points


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