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*The Right Wall
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A Wonderful Life T 
American Caesar T 
Aquarius Rising T 
Barbarian Rising T 
Bootlegger, The T 
Brother From Another Mother AKA B-FAM S 
Brother Of Fortune T 
Consensual Hex T 
Crescent Moon T 
Donald Duckin It T,S 
Dr. Octagon T 
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Flavor of the Day T 
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Harder They Come, The T 
Helicopter Exodus T 
Kindness T 
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Locks of Dread T 
Natural Enhancement T 
No Feelings T 
No Utopia T 
Parting Gift T 
Proud Father T 
Resurrection T 
Rice Paddy Ambush T 
Smilin' Jay T 
Snap Happy S 
Soldier of Fortune T 
Soul Market T 
Starry Night T 
Sweet Dreams T 
Tainted Love T 
Trident, The T 
Turn Down, For What? T 
Vietnam Vacation T 
Wasp Whisperer T 

Smilin' Jay 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: David Bloom, Jay M.
Page Views: 1,103
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006

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up high on smilin jay


Smiling Jay is the first route that local hero David Bloom added to the Waterfall, and to this day remains one of the better warmups on the right wall.

The pitch is characterized by a mostly finger sized crack with plenty of face holds. There is a short section of 5.9+ climbing that is hard to protect at 1/3 height... just after this section are some bomber #.5's. The rock can sound hollow in the middle of the route, but the boulder problem crux is up high on solid rock, and is protected with a bomber medium sized wire. Fun stuff, and a great intro to the Right Wall.


Right wall, middle section, ends on ledge.


Doubles from #1 TCU through .75 Camalot. Medium wires, draws.

Photos of Smilin' Jay Slideshow Add Photo
middle of route
middle of route
Smiling Jay, and Soldier of Fortune on the right
Smiling Jay, and Soldier of Fortune on the right
Andrea enjoys her first crack climb on Smilin Jay....
Andrea enjoys her first crack climb on Smilin Jay....
smilin j(mo)
smilin j(mo)

Comments on Smilin' Jay Add Comment
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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Nov 13, 2007

It might just be the warm-up, but it's a fun route on quality rock!
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