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The Right Wall
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Smilin' Jay 
Soldier of Fortune 
Soul Market 
Starry Night 
Sweet Dreams 
Tainted Love 
Trident, The 
Turn Down, For What? 
Wasp Whisperer 

Smilin' Jay 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: David Bloom, Jay M.
Page Views: 872
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006
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up high on smilin jay

Description 

Smiling Jay is the first route that local hero David Bloom added to the Waterfall, and to this day remains one of the better warmups on the right wall.

The pitch is characterized by a mostly finger sized crack with plenty of face holds. There is a short section of 5.9+ climbing that is hard to protect at 1/3 height... just after this section are some bomber #.5's. The rock can sound hollow in the middle of the route, but the boulder problem crux is up high on solid rock, and is protected with a bomber medium sized wire. Fun stuff, and a great intro to the Right Wall.


Location 

Right wall, middle section, ends on ledge.


Protection 

Doubles from #1 TCU through .75 Camalot. Medium wires, draws.



Photos of Smilin' Jay Slideshow Add Photo
Smiling Jay/Unknown Soldier (one and the same), and Soldier of Fortune on the right
Smiling Jay/Unknown Soldier (one and the same), an...
middle of route
middle of route
Andrea enjoys her first crack climb on Smilin Jay. November 2007.
Andrea enjoys her first crack climb on Smilin Jay....
smilin j(mo)
smilin j(mo)
Comments on Smilin' Jay Add Comment
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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Nov 13, 2007

It might just be the warm-up, but it's a fun route on quality rock!