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The Right Wall
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A Wonderful Life T 
American Caesar T 
Aquarius Rising T 
Barbarian Rising T 
Brother From Another Mother AKA B-FAM S 
Brother Of Fortune T 
Consensual Hex T 
Crescent Moon T 
Donald Duckin It T,S 
Dr. Octagon T 
Flavor of the Day T 
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Harder They Come, The T 
Helicopter Exodus T 
Kindness T 
Labor Day T 
Locks of Dread T 
Natural Enhancement T 
No Feelings T 
No Utopia T 
Parting Gift T 
Proud Father T 
Resurrection T 
Rice Paddy Ambush T 
Smilin' Jay T 
Soldier of Fortune T 
Soul Market T 
Starry Night T 
Sweet Dreams T 
Tainted Love T 
Trident, The T 
Turn Down, For What? T 
Wasp Whisperer T 

Smilin' Jay 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: David Bloom, Jay M.
Page Views: 887
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006

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up high on smilin jay

Description 

Smiling Jay is the first route that local hero David Bloom added to the Waterfall, and to this day remains one of the better warmups on the right wall.

The pitch is characterized by a mostly finger sized crack with plenty of face holds. There is a short section of 5.9+ climbing that is hard to protect at 1/3 height... just after this section are some bomber #.5's. The rock can sound hollow in the middle of the route, but the boulder problem crux is up high on solid rock, and is protected with a bomber medium sized wire. Fun stuff, and a great intro to the Right Wall.


Location 

Right wall, middle section, ends on ledge.


Protection 

Doubles from #1 TCU through .75 Camalot. Medium wires, draws.



Photos of Smilin' Jay Slideshow Add Photo
Smiling Jay/Unknown Soldier (one and the same), and Soldier of Fortune on the right
Smiling Jay/Unknown Soldier (one and the same), an...
middle of route
middle of route
Andrea enjoys her first crack climb on Smilin Jay. November 2007.
Andrea enjoys her first crack climb on Smilin Jay....
smilin j(mo)
smilin j(mo)
Comments on Smilin' Jay Add Comment
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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Nov 13, 2007

It might just be the warm-up, but it's a fun route on quality rock!