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Castle Rock - East Face
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Smiley Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 424
Submitted By: Mike Roghaar on May 19, 2011

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Description 

This is a fun 4 pitch climb up the center of the Southeast face that seems to see little to no traffic. Start on a gritty slab left of a gully. Climb the slab past 2 bolts to a short crack section fallowed by one more bolt and a small roof. Pull over the roof using gear for pro to a chain anchor. Pitch two climbs a somewhat dirty (should clean up nicely after a few more ascents) dog leg crack using gear and 3 bolts to a chain anchor. Pitch 3 climbs the bolt protected steep face to a chain anchor. Pitch 4 climbs past a few bolts on huge holds to the top and eases up a lot. Rap the route with 2 60 meter ropes.

Location 

Climbs the center of rhe southeast face. The dog leg on the second pitch can be seen from the approach.

Protection 

Quickdraws, a single rack to 2 inches and a set of nuts.


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By zoso
May 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The initial slab was gritty, but the rest was quite clean. I really liked this route. I don't recall it being run out at all.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2013

hmmm, guess I missed the 2 bolts on the slab at the bottom. We climbed the chimney/crack which was pretty fun on sub-par rock (2 & 3 cam was nice). Combined pitch 3&4. Rapped with single 60m.