SMERSH  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  David Goldstein, Dougald MacDonald, Jack Roberts New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Dougald MacDonald on Oct 9, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Despite the back-and-forth appearance of the line ...

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Description 

Start on Specter, but break right instead of left through the alcove roof about 20 feet off the ground. Step right again and climb a steep crack system. Cruxes at the first roof and at the start of the upper crack system. After the second crux, move right to find a protectable crack, then step back left and continue to the Specter anchors. Above the cruxes is lots of fun 5.9-ish climbing.

This is a continuous, complex, steep, exciting, and excellent lead that required three visits (two for Dave) and some short but bruising falls to complete. Dave got the redpoint. An onsight would be a worthy challenge.

Protection 

One set of wires to about #6; Camalots to #3, with doubles from 0.5 to 2; two yellow Aliens (or equivalents). Plus: A yellow Black Diamond C3 is the perfect piece to protect the first crux, at the right side of the alcove; back it up with a slightly smaller piece. Save two hand-size pieces for the second crux. Use long slings below the roof and on the first piece in the right-hand crack system to eliminate rope drag.

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Midway in the first crux sequence. Getting into a ...