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Midway in the first crux sequence. Getting into a ...
Start on Specter
, but break right instead of left through the alcove roof about 20 feet off the ground. Step right again and climb a steep crack system. Cruxes at the first roof and at the start of the upper crack system. After the second crux, move right to find a protectable crack, then step back left and continue to the Specter
anchors. Above the cruxes is lots of fun 5.9-ish climbing.
This is a continuous, complex, steep, exciting, and excellent lead that required three visits (two for Dave) and some short but bruising falls to complete. Dave got the redpoint. An onsight would be a worthy challenge.
One set of wires to about #6; Camalots to #3, with doubles from 0.5 to 2; two yellow Aliens (or equivalents). Plus: A yellow Black Diamond C3 is the perfect piece to protect the first crux, at the right side of the alcove; back it up with a slightly smaller piece. Save two hand-size pieces for the second crux. Use long slings below the roof and on the first piece in the right-hand crack system to eliminate rope drag.
BETA PHOTO: Despite the back-and-forth appearance of the line ...
Jun 21, 2014
Fun timesplenty of challenge! I woulda been a bit less SMERSHED had I brought doubles of hand-size: #1 and #2 Camalot (Metolius #6 and #7). Watch for licheny footholds up high.