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Smerk 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jun 9, 2009
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By phillip
Jun 10, 2009

Smerk is the bolted face climb immediately left of New Generation (the 5.8 crack). Five bolts to the first anchor (11a). The second pitch of this is also reasonably clean and pretty good. Four more bolts to another anchor (10c). A 60m rope will get you down from the 2nd pitch anchor. The third pitch is overgrown and seldom done.

By peachy spohn
Jun 15, 2009

Sorry about the lack of information for this route...I got on Notorious a few weeks back and was told it was called Smerk by some other climbers (I didnt have a guide book). Thus the info I posted was wrong and the info posted above is correct.

By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Jul 20, 2009

Definitely recommend this climb. Cool, slightly insecure moves up top.

By another Chad
Jul 5, 2013

A 60m rope will just barely get you down from the top of the third pitch if the climber starts on p1 of New Generation. P3 is a little mossy but the flora is avoidable.

In my opinion, p2 is the best pitch on Smerk.


Chad

By Patrick Fink
Aug 1, 2013

A strong crux off the ground leads to more balancy climbing with good holds above. Fun small edges and pockets keep the climbing entertaining through most of the first pitch.

By Ryan Ried
From: Portland OR
Sep 13, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I climbed all three pitches today and while there is moss on pitch 3 the holds are all clean. There is some (avoidable) poison oak to the right of the pitch two anchors, be careful. This is a great route with some great views of Mt. Hood on the upper pitches!