|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Alan Nelson & Richard Wright|
|Submitted By:||Monomaniac on May 26, 2008|
|Comments on Smell The Coffee||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|I personally disagree with the description of the route. It's not really sustained. It's a boulder problem at the beginning to a no hands rest. To really easy climbing, to a technical easier boulder problem at the top. It is long but not sustained. It's an okay problem, definitely not even close to the best 11b in Rifle, and I don't think it's even the best 11 at its own wall. That is just my opinion, but it's a cool route if you want a fun boulder problem to warm up on!|
By John Byrnes
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 29, 2015
The start of this route (traverse) could use another bolt between #1 & #2, or maybe just move #2 down and right a bit.
Right now you have to reach high above your head to clip #2, which is a spinning cold-shut. You have good hand holds, but the feet are polished and insecure. If you blow it, you will certainly hit the deck hard.
You can mitigate this by using your stick to pre-hang #2 with a longer draw. Don't clip the rope though, because if you do, you'll pendulum like mad (and likely hit the wall/ground) if you fall near #1, which is the main crux.