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Smell the Coffee 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand, Vaino Kodas, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,835
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Dec 1, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.

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  • Description 

    Downhill from Snooze Button find a clean slab with bolts. Climb this, continue up and over a small roof, then sprint to the anchors. The crux is getting past the second bolt: straight up is significantly harder, and most people seem to end up climbing a bit right where the holds are. Excellent.


    Protection 

    8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.



    Photos of Smell the Coffee Slideshow Add Photo
    This climber did not know about moving left, and tried going straight up. It's possible--there are crimps--but much harder. He eventually went right.
    This climber did not know about moving left, and t...
    Smell the Coffee.
    Smell the Coffee.
    Smell the Coffee and The Daily Grind, Plotinus Wall
    BETA PHOTO: Smell the Coffee and The Daily Grind, Plotinus Wal...
    Starting the crux. The route moves left from here to a sidepull in a thin crack where the rock turns orange.
    Starting the crux. The route moves left from here ...
    At the crux, using the small sidepull on the left that is mentioned in the comments. The route to the right, Daily Grind, was put up on about 7/20/03 after some of the comments above, hence the confusion as to whether to go left or right at this crux. Now that Daily Grind is to the right, it's more obvious to go left here. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
    At the crux, using the small sidepull on the left ...
    Above the crux on the 5.8 or so fun upper half.
    Above the crux on the 5.8 or so fun upper half.
    Comments on Smell the Coffee Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

    Pretty good route. Going WAY right at the crux seems like the line of least resistance, as my partner did it, and we were both a little confused about the intended line. It seemed a little easy that way, but that's where all the chalk was.

    Going slightly right (left hand stays in clipping range) seemed about right for the grade, and if you stayed direct, 'belly to the bolts' it seemed very hard. I wound up to do it that way, checked my head and asked "5.10a?" and then moved a little right. It will go belly-on, but it'll be mid 5.11.

    Depends how you do it, can be a little easier or much harder.

    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Jul 11, 2003

    When this route was being developed, it was envisioned to climb it slightly left of the 2nd bolt. That was the crux, I thought some kind of 5.11. The real good handhold that you clip the 2nd bolt from did not exist in its current form. There was a loose flake on top of it, so you had to be careful how you pulled on it. When that flake came off, it made a very good hold that allows passage up and right. The farther right you go, the easier that move becomes, probably 5.9. It makes for a good route at a consistent grade.

    By Jeff St. Pierre
    Aug 17, 2003
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    OK... If this a 5.10a then Napster is definitely not a 10c. The beta photo has the 5th bolt wrong; you do not go around the small roof, you go right over it.

    I would put this route at 10b/c going straight up the bolts (crux between bolts 2 and 3) as Bob intended; even with the good side-pull it is a balancy move that is hard to reach if you are shorter than me. If you go right, you are more on the start to The Daily Grind which is well-rated at 10b/c, and another fun route on this part of the wall.

    By Joe Collins
    Oct 6, 2003
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    We climbed this by going slightly left at the second bolt, liebacking the seam. Felt pretty hard for 10a... definitely harder than Napster or Mr. Sandman. It's tempting to even call it 10+.

    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 3, 2006
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

    For a nice warm up (if 5.10 is hard you that is): climb the first 4 bolts of The Daily Grind, then at the small overhang before the route gets thin along that little seam - traverse left up and over the overhang and finish on Smell the Coffee. This I thought was a decent 5.9 climb as you avoid the crux moves of both routes. Even with normal draws I didn't feel much rope drag as the two bolt lines are pretty close. You can call it Grind the Coffee or something...The crux was a balance, "do you trust your feet" thing. It's all there you just have to find the little footholds. Felt 10 on the left seam.

    By claramie
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 25, 2007

    I liked this route a lot. A great warm up with big holds and no tough moves. Just fun the whole way and a great way to start out the day.

    By Chris O'Connor
    From: bouldertown, co
    May 8, 2007
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

    I found the crux a bit deceiving like everyone else, but found traversing left to the side-pull seam to be a very natural feeling sequence. Also I highly recommend the second pitch Caffeine Buzz linked together with Smell the Coffee as one long pitch.

    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 29, 2008
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

    After having done this via the left seam and straight up past the bolts (more like just right of the bolts but not wayyyyy right) they seem kind of equal. Balancy on the left seam and a high-step/throw to a crimp on the right of the bolts. Felt 5.10 both ways. There is enough rock in Boulder that I didn't need to go literally straight up the bolt line, but yes this would be harder. Definitely not the path of least resistance. Funny though coming from Washington, DC where all the local crags are tiny - there would be three variations to this climb. When you only have a few climbs to choose from you explore every option.

    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 21, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    If you go straight up instead of heading off to the right, this route is definitely more difficult than Mr Sandman. Fun, balance-y, reach-y and technical enough to make it interesting. Check it out and watch your feet at the first crux!

    Also, if you want to make things real interesting, try a full four-limbed layback on the roof fin. Felt like I was in yoga class... forty feet off the ground.