Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Smears for Fears Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lebanese JoJo 
Rojo 
Smears for Fears 

Smears for Fears 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: spring and fall
Page Views: 1,033
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Feb 7, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The first crux on Smears for Fears.

Description 

One of the sweetest slab routes in red Rocks. Even though this is bolted one should view it as a trad climb as the bolts are fairly far apart and were put in on lead at available stances. The first crux comes about 15 feet up. The next crux is clipping and climbing above the last bolt. Long fall potential here if you skitter off. Once you get your hands on the ledge a quick mantle will slow the heart rate back down and easy 5th class to the anchor.


Location 

The obvious bolted slab 100' right of Lebanese Jojo.


Protection 

Bolts and a couple of small pieces right off the ground.



Photos of Smears for Fears Slideshow Add Photo
Moving thru the first small roof. The second crux comes at the next roof above.
Moving thru the first small roof. The second crux ...
Comments on Smears for Fears Add Comment
Show which comments
By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jan 16, 2012

After back-to-back efforts, the consensus in my group was that this was at least as difficult as Rojo. 11b/c may be lowballing it a bit.