Smear Factor  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Chris magness, 10/09 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  chris magness on Sep 18, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Casey just below the crux sequence

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Description 

Harder than it looks! Technical and frictiony climbing. Place optional (and questionable) finger sized gear off the ground and climb to the first bolt (5.8, a little spicey) or stick clip. Optional .5 below the overlap. Crux at overlap using an upside down hold, sustained climbing/crimping to top. 2 bolt rap station after mantle.

Location 

Mud Slide Crack wall. Drive north past Humphrey's Ledge main face. Park by Black Pudding Gulley (blue house with large boulder in yard).

Walk past the house and turn left at an obvious property line to the woods. Step left through some boulders and follow orange climbers tape up to the crag. Hike left 50' and look for a series of short cracks (12 Weeks, Rear End Blues). 5 minutes to here.

Continue climbers' left to another short and broken cliff band. Hike upward, the cliff betters in quality and grows in height. Smear Factor will be the first climb.

10 minutes from the car.

Protection 

3 bolts and optional finger sized gear and optional .5