Smear Factor 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Tony Sartin, November 2002 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Bob Gaines on Dec 14, 2008 |
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Smear Factor
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A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>
The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Begin just right of Disrythmia and make some very delicate (12-) moves into a concavity, followed by overhanging jugs (11-). The crux at the start is well-protected, and very balancey (like a V4 boulder problem). Once you solve this, you're into some steep face climbing on nice patina jugs.
Location Starts from the far left end of the big ramp on the extreme left side of Little Hunk's East face, about 50 feet up the ramp to the left of The New Deal.
Protection 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor, 1 to 2 inch gear anchor for start.
BETA PHOTO: Disrythmia (L) and Smear Factor (R)
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By Murf Dec 15, 2008 rating: 5.12a/b
| Crux is sport bolted, which is good because the crux will likely take a number of tries to figure out.. good route, slab test piece. |
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