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The Cookie Sheet
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Cookie Sheet, The 
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Smear Campaign 
Wump World 

Smear Campaign 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan Dingle, David Whitelaw, Bob Steed, 10/07
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 12, 2012
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Description 

This was my favorite of the Cookie Sheet routes I've done so far. It is possibly the longest on the wall, reaching the highest point on the slab over on the right side. The route begins on the far right side of the highest ledge system, just before a drop-off.

The first pitch climbs through some 5.8 friction and then some small corners and features up to the anchor. The second pitch is hard for 20 ft right off the belay and has a tenuous clip at the first bolt. Have your belayer hanging out to the left so you don't fall on their head if you blow it. After that it's more cruising up to another anchor. The 3rd pitch works through some steeper (but still low-angle) bulges on featured rock and then climbs up a final slab to the anchor just below the headwall.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By Osprey
From: ...
Mar 7, 2012

FA: Dan Dingle, David Whitelaw, Bob Steed, 10/07