Smear Campaign  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Dan Dingle, David Whitelaw, Bob Steed, 10/07 Submitted By:  Bryan G on Feb 12, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This was my favorite of the Cookie Sheet routes I've done so far. It is possibly the longest on the wall, reaching the highest point on the slab over on the right side. The route begins on the far right side of the highest ledge system, just before a drop-off.

The first pitch climbs through some 5.8 friction and then some small corners and features up to the anchor. The second pitch is hard for 20 ft right off the belay and has a tenuous clip at the first bolt. Have your belayer hanging out to the left so you don't fall on their head if you blow it. After that it's more cruising up to another anchor. The 3rd pitch works through some steeper (but still low-angle) bulges on featured rock and then climbs up a final slab to the anchor just below the headwall.

Protection 

Bolts.