|510 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 320 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10d [details]|
|FA: ||Jason Mcnabb, Ron Yahne, Chris Hirsch, Adam Bergdale, Caleb Hansen 6/23/11|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Hirsch on Jun 25, 2011|
The newest classic line in Emancipation. I would say it's up there with Garfield and Political Prowess. With a nice medium of mixed gear it never gets too spooky, making it a great climb for ...anyone really. Running right between Utter Butter and Political Prowess up a continuous slab this route may hold the longest pitch at Rushmore. And it says it in the name....bring your best smearing shoes.
Pitch 1: 5.8 125' Shares the same first pitch with Political, up the dihedral to a ledge then lieback a short right facing corner. But instead of building an anchor in the horizontal, continue to cut up left toward a bolted anchor in the major dihedral. A single 60m rope will not reach the ground from this anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.10+ 160' Are you ready for this mega pitch? There are 11 bolts plus all the gear you'd like in between. So, 20 draws is recommended. Use as many long runners as you can, especially in the first half. When leaving the anchor, start to the left then traverse right (avoid starting on the death blocks to your right). Follow the vertical seams linked by bolts with a slight 'S' curve in the middle. The rope drag doesn't actually get that bad, but if lugging 100lbs of gear isn't your idea of fun then there is an optional natural belay located just above the bush half way up the slab. Continue past the puzzling crux to the amazing (bolted) belay at the base of the steep headwall, where you can watch your partner climb the entire pitch.
Pitch 3: 5.10- 40' From the awesome belay at the top of the second pitch, start just right of the anchors in the finger crack that leads into the chimney. Some good gear will take you to two bolts in the short chimney section just below the top.
Gear: Singles #000-#3, Stoppers, 20 draws (or 10 if you choose to break-up the second pitch).
Descent: Two FULL 60m ropes will get you down from the top anchors to the 1st pitch anchors. Then one more (double-rope) rap to the ground. When pulling rope from the top, be careful not to get it stuck in the dihedral to the left. On the rap to the ground, rap straight down. Not down the 1st pitch dihedral.
|Comments on Smear Campaign
|By Wilson On The Drums|
From: RapidCity, SD
Nov 1, 2012
This is a really fun route. If you're not quite a 5.10+ climber, you can always just do the first pitch(5.8-) which is pretty enjoyable in itself. The second pitch has awesome continuous climbing with smears, jams, slopers, a little jug here and there, there are 2 distinct cruxs on the 2nd pitch, i didn't quite have what it took so I stepped on a bolt at the 1st crux and pulled on the draw at the 2nd, other than those sections though the climbing is great sustained 5.9. the 3rd pitch was a little awkward getting out of the belay and into the chimney, 10- for sure, be ready to make the move, and then you're on to easier terrain where you can get a piece or 2 in before the 2 bolts. glad i got the chance to get on it. thanks manel!