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Smashmouth 

5.11a

   
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
FA: Bird, French, Draper, Greer
Submitted By: Colin Moorhead on May 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Pitch 4 of Smashmouth.

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Description 

Worthwhile route, well set up with modern anchors, can be climbed and descended with one 60m rope.

P1. 5.11a, Short, stout tight hands leads to easier climbing.

P2. 5.10c, Tricky bolted face leads to easier hand/ finger crack.

P3. 5.10b, Beautiful fingers and hands supplemented with plentiful face holds.

P4. 5.11a, More of the same, with short crux at the end protected by bristler.

Note either pitch 2&3 or 3&4 could easily be linked (recommended)


Protection 

Supertopo rack description is a tad overkill.

2x Blue, yellow, orange metolius. .75, 1 BD. 1x 2,3 BD. 1x nuts. Add 1 extra yellow and orange metolius if you want to link pitches.



Photos of Smashmouth Slideshow Add Photo
Smashmouth topo

BETA PHOTO: Smashmouth topo

smashmouth follows the obvious zigzagging splitter up this face.

BETA PHOTO: smashmouth follows the obvious zigzagging splitter...

pitch 1 corner

pitch 1 corner

top of pitch 2

top of pitch 2

pitch 3

pitch 3

looking up pitch 4

looking up pitch 4

Pitch one thin hands. It looks fingerish here, but those are red camalots

Pitch one thin hands. It looks fingerish here, but...


Comments on Smashmouth Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 20, 2013
By Mike
From: Phoenix
May 25, 2010
rating: 5.11

This is an excellent route. The top 2 pitches are outstanding! Although the 5.11+ rating in the Supertopo guide did seem seem a bit excessive, I wouldn't call it 11- either. My pitch-by pitch ratings were:
P1: 10+
P2: 10+
P3: 11-
P4: 11

Regardless of the rating, this route is heaps of fun.

By Jay Brown
Mar 8, 2011

5.11 route. the bolt at the top was also unnecessary. sweet outing!

By Joe Sambataro
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 23, 2011

Amazing route! I agree with Mike's pitch break down: 10+, 10+, 11- and 11. Agreed, bolt isn't necessary at the top of the 4th pitch. I also concur that SuperTopo rack list is a bit overkill but the post here is a little sparse for the average 5.11 climber. I would recommend:

2 green aliens
4 yellow aliens/TCUs
6 red aliens/0.5 camalots
Doubles from .75 to #2, and nothing bigger.
Set of nuts optional (not a lot of constrictions in this splitter!)

Linking pitch 2 & 3 or 3 & 4 is definitely possible if you are ok running it out a bit or if you bring extra mid size cams as listed above.

By Angela Mabe
From: Flagstaff,AZ
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.11

wow! awesome route! i thought that the 3rd pitch was the crux, 4th pitch was just as amazing and the 2nd pitch was so fun, i was giggling like a kid in a candy shop. def a must do :)

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.11

Better than Fine Jade in Castle Valley. Not to split hairs, but my pitch breakdown would be more like:
P1: 10+/11- stiff out of the gate, jamming the hollow flake. Watch for drag. 100'
P2: 10- elegant traversing face moves, and secure crack climbing with great feet. 70'
P3: 11 sustained bits of left-leaning fingers, some sharp thin hand jams and smears for you left foot. 75'
P4: 11- excellent with good rests and cool finishing sequence. I also thought this pitch was easier than the 3rd and I didn't mind clipping the bolt. What's a bristler? 65'

Joe's gear suggestion worked well, though i used
(2)0.3 C4
(2)0.4 C4
Aliens: yellow, grey, red
(4) 0.5 C4
(2) 0.75 C4
(2) 1 C4
(2) 2 C4

I actually would have liked a #3 camalot in a few spots, but is not necessary.

By steven sadler
From: south jordan, UT
Jul 19, 2012

would anyone disagree with me removing that unnecessary bolt on pitch 4?

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 19, 2012

I'll bet a certain Bird, French, Draper, and Greer would be opposed.

By Caleb Padgett
From: Rockville, utah
Jul 26, 2012

Steven, if you PM me I can get you the contact info of all the first ascenionists. I would urge you not to remove the bolt until you spoke with them. Until then, just don't clip it. Cheers.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Nov 25, 2012

Approach beta: The directions to this climb here or on the main confluence page seem nonexistent. From the turnout at the last switchback before the tunnel, hike west on a good trail for 10 or so minutes until the wall turns from north to west facing. Hike another 10 minutes along the wall's base past the gorgeous thin splitter "Crimson King", trending down till you can see the dark face with the splitter with a roof above it . The pictures posted here are very helpful. You can see the visitor center from the base of the climb. If the wall turns back north facing you've gone too far.

Weird how ratings/gear recommendation are all over the board on this one. The poster suggest 2 .5 camalots or equivalent, while another commenter suggests 6? After doing the route, let me say this: if you only bring 2, you'll be desperate, if you bring 6, you'll likely have 3 still sitting on your harness at the next belay. As for rating, Crimson King is way harder than any of the 5.11 pitches on SM, so I give this climb 11a. Hanging stances on p3 and p4, easy rap with one rope.

Gear:
6 qd's
2 red c3
3 .3 camalot
4-5 .4 camalot
4-5 .5 camalot
99% of the gear for pitches 2-4 is in this range of sizes

-for pitch 1 only
1 .75 camalot
2 #1 camalot
1 #2 camalot
1 #3 camalot

By Phil Esra
Mar 31, 2013

Agree with Spencer about approach (though took us more time) and rack. Bring a pile of BD .4 to .5 or orange Metolii. Lots of decent stances for back cleaning if needed--that's what I did. Placed one medium nut total.

Looked all over the top of p4 for something that looked like a "bristler" but could not find it. Maybe it was trundled, or broke off.

By Mary Harlan
From: Aspen, CO
Apr 20, 2013

Great route- definitely no harder than .11a, and I would say 4 .5 cams, 4 .4 cams, no #3 cam. Loved it!