Smashing Pumpkins  5.5 R

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 25 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  Bradley White Oct. 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Oct 24, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Start here and keep on truckin up the middle or yo...

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Description 

Start above the bottom of slab that has lichen and big holds or start above the lichen by traversing onto the slab. Go straight up at indent and the slab gets harder to climb as you go. The crux is above the indent. Make your way up to a horizontal seam (useless for fingers). It becomes a shallow finger crack by traversing right, then the heart rush is over. The slab remains steep or steeper at the seam. I bailed out over to Jack O'lantern. It goes on steeper for ten more feet. The slab is open for some distance below and falling at the crux with a rope, you might live. Free soloed it.

Location 

Left, lower start to Jack O'lantern Slab.

Protection 

No pro except at the seam crack, one of the smallest flexible TCU's should fit it or a short lost arrow. Finish up Jack O'lantern or go a little higher to down climb the (5.1) diagonal traverse ramp that meets up with the crack.

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I exited before the white slab. White slab is very...