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The Bear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Arete, The 
Bear Crack, The 
Bear Cub Crack 
Bear Fingers 
Bear's Choice 
Beast of Burden 
Beast, The 
Black Hole Sun 
Body Snatcher 
Jason and the Argonauts 
Jekyll and Hyde 
Just Bearly 
Kidnapped 
Kill Uncle 
Kodiak 
Lower Arete 
Mark's Moderate 
Napa Valley Party Service 
Old And In The Way 
Polar Bear Spire 
Rampage 
Silverado Squatters 
Smash n Grab 
Stone Free 
Swallow My Pride 
Theodore Roosevelt 
Treasure Island 
Uncle Tom 
Ursa Major 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack 
Wayne's World 
Unsorted Routes:

Smash n Grab 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Berghorn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 601
Submitted By: eric berghorn on Feb 9, 2009
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Eric Berghorn and Jerry Dodrill on upper face, Sma...

Description 

P1- Start at the base of "Kodiak" (below the "Bear Arete" climbing route) Scramble up a low angle corner for about 25 feet, gaining a good stance on top of a small ledge. From there you can clip the first of 11 bolts, moving straight up through a buldging head wall replete with awkward liebacking on hidden holds. There are a couple of ways you can go when climbing through the overhanging first section of the route. The most direct option is 5.11 a/b.

P2- Gain the low-angled sloping ledge clipping the optional rappel/belay anchor above it. If climbing the route in one pitch continue straight up past more 5 bolts climbing carefully above the mid-anchor into a steep, awkward corner slightly right of the bolt line. Be careful here as you are climbing above a ledge out of view from your belayer. The 5.11 c/d moves are protected, however, too much slack here could result in a ledge fall. Powerful moves combined with thin awkward face climbing lead to some good pockets/jugs and a decent rest before tackling the crux. After a good rest stance above the crux, the top section eases off slightly but offers some thoughtful moves on yet another vertical section before a good ledge and the anchor are reached. Use long slings when appropriate to reduce rope drag if climbing the route in a single pitch.


Location 

Route starts by climbing 25 ft. up into the alcove just left of the obvious Bear Crack route. 1st bolt is clipped from a good stance just down and right from the start of steep lie backing/face climbing on grayish black rock.


Protection 

11 bolts, with an optional mid-point lower off anchor above initial 5.11a overhanging face.



Photos of Smash n Grab Slideshow Add Photo
Jim Thornburg climbing through the lower section. Photo: Jerry Dodrill
Jim Thornburg climbing through the lower section. ...
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By Cam Parry
From: Calistoga, CA
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

You can rap off from the top anchors to the ground with a 50 meter, but just barely. A 50 easily makes it to the starting point from where you can down climb the last 3-4 meters to the ground. Stiff, sustained, and bouldery after the midway anchor.