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 ADVANCED
The Bear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Arete, The S 
Bear Crack, The T 
Bear Cub Crack T 
Bear Fingers T 
Bear's Choice S 
Beast of Burden S 
Beast, The T 
Black Hole Sun S 
Body Snatcher S 
Jason and the Argonauts S,TR 
Jekyll and Hyde S 
Just Bearly T 
Kidnapped S 
Kill Uncle S,TR 
Kodiak S 
Lower Arete S,TR 
Mark's Moderate T,S 
Napa Valley Party Service S 
Old And In The Way S 
Polar Bear Spire S 
Rampage S 
Silverado Squatters S 
Smash n Grab S 
Stone Free S 
Swallow My Pride S 
Theodore Roosevelt S,TR 
Treasure Island S 
Uncle Tom S 
Ursa Major T 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 
Wayne's World S 
Unsorted Routes:

Smash n Grab 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Berghorn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: eric berghorn on Feb 9, 2009

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Eric Berghorn and Jerry Dodrill on upper face, Sma...

Description 

P1- Start at the base of "Kodiak" (below the "Bear Arete" climbing route) Scramble up a low angle corner for about 25 feet, gaining a good stance on top of a small ledge. From there you can clip the first of 11 bolts, moving straight up through a buldging head wall replete with awkward liebacking on hidden holds. There are a couple of ways you can go when climbing through the overhanging first section of the route. The most direct option is 5.11 a/b.

P2- Gain the low-angled sloping ledge clipping the optional rappel/belay anchor above it. If climbing the route in one pitch continue straight up past more 5 bolts climbing carefully above the mid-anchor into a steep, awkward corner slightly right of the bolt line. Be careful here as you are climbing above a ledge out of view from your belayer. The 5.11 c/d moves are protected, however, too much slack here could result in a ledge fall. Powerful moves combined with thin awkward face climbing lead to some good pockets/jugs and a decent rest before tackling the crux. After a good rest stance above the crux, the top section eases off slightly but offers some thoughtful moves on yet another vertical section before a good ledge and the anchor are reached. Use long slings when appropriate to reduce rope drag if climbing the route in a single pitch.

Location 

Route starts by climbing 25 ft. up into the alcove just left of the obvious Bear Crack route. 1st bolt is clipped from a good stance just down and right from the start of steep lie backing/face climbing on grayish black rock.

Protection 

11 bolts, with an optional mid-point lower off anchor above initial 5.11a overhanging face.


Photos of Smash n Grab Slideshow Add Photo
Jim Thornburg climbing through the lower section. ...
Jim Thornburg climbing through the lower section. ...

Comments on Smash n Grab Add Comment
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By Cam Parry
From: Calistoga, CA
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

You can rap off from the top anchors to the ground with a 50 meter, but just barely. A 50 easily makes it to the starting point from where you can down climb the last 3-4 meters to the ground. Stiff, sustained, and bouldery after the midway anchor.