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Smart things other climbers have said
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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Jun 14, 2011
Imaginate
"Als Sports is having a crazy deal on cams." DannyUncanny

Now that was smart.

FLAG
By JSH
Administrator
Jun 14, 2011
JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker
1. "if you want to say something meaningful about climbing, you have to do it without numbers"

2. "Climb with quiet feet."

FLAG
By Dustin Lagoy
From Western MA
Jun 14, 2011
Me
One of the quotes in the Gunks guide:
"Well in my opinion there are no hard rules for climbing a route, only for talking about it later." Peter Boyle

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By Br'er Rabbit
From The Briar Patch
Jun 14, 2011
'Bred en bawn in a brier-patch, Brer Fox--bred en ...
"Just 'cause you can climb 5.11 doesn't make 5.8, 5.4."

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By Evan Sanders
From Westminster, CO
Jun 14, 2011
Flaming Pumpkin
BirminghamBen wrote:
"Just 'cause you can climb 5.11 doesn't make 5.8, 5.4."


I'd like to kiss whoever said this. I hate it when hard climbers downgrade an easier route.

FLAG
By AhK
Jun 14, 2011
View from the Fin
"There's no such thing as cheating in climbing. Only lying."

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By Aerili
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 15, 2011
The West Desert...it's not just for climbing, suck...
A story from my past 5+ years ago or so:

I go out for a winter day of sport cragging at Queen Creek in Arizona with about 5 or 6 people. Most of these people would qualify as noobs (all friends of my friend I made plans with). One is a guy who has climbed perhaps twice? I watch him toprope a couple routes in a manner akin to a newborn kitten trying to crawl up its mother (motor skills seriously in question). He never looks down once and his feet are pawing and paddling and popping off the rock constantly.

I tell him to watch me climb my next route and pay attention to how I look down at my feet (using my stereoptic vision to configure my footholds precisely, yo). I instruct him to use this same ability to conquer his next route. He proceeds to do so and then exclaims, mid-route,

"THAT is the BEST advice I have EVER HEARD!!!"

It still makes me giggle when I think about his vocal intonation to this day. (Sadly, that is probably the pinnacle of my advice abilities in terms of unwavering quality and soundness.)




Words of wisdom given unto me by my friend Fred from Tucson one sunny day in Joshua Tree several years ago:

"If a cam doesn't seem to place that well in the crack, flip it around and try it the other way."

I still remember his advice, use it often, and have passed it on to others new to the art.

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By ChanVan
Jun 15, 2011
hello
My favorite nugget of wisdom comes from the man, the myth, the legend: Mr. Tim Fisher. I was sketching out on a scary trad pitch somewhere in NC and whining about the crappy piece I had just placed when Tim yelled up to me, just as cheerful as can be, "it's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick!"

...and dammit he was right.

FLAG
 
By shoo
Jun 15, 2011
Rock wars, Red River Gorge
On a rainy day, randomly in a discussion with Jim Donini at the Yosemite Lodge.

"Where are you guys from?" -Jim

"I grew up in Ind-" -Me, being cut off

"No. You're a climber. You never grew up." -Jim

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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Jun 15, 2011
" your buckle on your chest strap of your pack is also a whistle"

felt like a tool been climbing with the pack over a yr lol

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By Jay Samuelson
From Denver CO
Jun 15, 2011
sweet boulder
Paraphrased from Between a Rock and a Hard Place:

"Geology is a current event"

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By Helldorado
From Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2011
JSH wrote:
1. "if you want to say something meaningful about climbing, you have to do it without numbers" 2. "Climb with quiet feet."


Number one is a good rule, don't spray about the grades you have done, because they don't say anything as to how skilled you are as a climber, just that you did it.

Number two is something that a lot of people might not even understand, even after years of climbing. Once you force a less technically proficient climber to not make any sound with their shoes and precisely, accurately place their feet on each and every foothold, they obviously become much better climbers.

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By Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 15, 2011
"You got it, bro!"

- Anonymous slack-jawed gawker at the crag

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By Tan
Jun 15, 2011
While I was having trouble committing to the beginning of Buissonier: "Remember, it's a 5.7. If you get into 5.10 territory, you're doing it wrong."

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By Buff Johnson
Jun 15, 2011
smiley face
No, we didn't make it. The aliens start shooting at you midway up



I'm fine, I'm just having my history of serious commitment issues issue

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By Rockwood
From West Jordan
Jun 15, 2011
Spring in Zion
"Remember to breath"
"If a bee stung you would you fall?" When debating free soloing up a crack in Squamish and many times since echoing inside my head.
"just skip a few meals and buy a cam instead. You'll have your own full rack in no time"
my favorite:
"Embrace the idea of climbing what's not there" ...or something like that. When asked for advice on climbing cracks. I'm sure Bobby Hanson will read see this so he can correct what he said exactly but that's how I remember it.

FLAG
 
By Robbie Flick
From Denver, CO
Jun 15, 2011
From a one armed hitchhiker in New South Wales, Australia, as we parted ways (not a climber, but still relevant I feel)

"Enjoy - that's what life's for"

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By !?!
From !?!
Jun 15, 2011
I ran into an old school instructor who offered me this piece of wisdom:

FRICTION, its the "F" word of climbing

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By Alex g
Jun 15, 2011
"drink alot so you can get high" said my climbing coach to two 11 year olds. (talking about water at a climbing comp.)

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By thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Jun 15, 2011
mike
Rockwood wrote:
"Remember to breath"


My partner always says this and always helps me get grounded for some reason.

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By Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Jun 15, 2011
Kilroy
dont fuck up and die, dont fuck up and kill your partner...

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By Ty Harlacker
From Albuquerque, NM
Jun 15, 2011
Silverton
  • "Smile!"
  • "The only way to be 100% sure you will not be hit by an avalanche is: don't go into avalanche terrain."

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By The Mother Ship
Jun 15, 2011
There's no bad ice, only bad ice climbers

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By Dr. Ellis D. Funnythoughts
From Evergreen, Co
Jun 16, 2011
You can tell Lenny any of your sport climbing prob...
"You realize your belaying, right?"

FLAG
 
By Superclimber
Jun 17, 2011
Maybe this should be in the "dumb things" thread.

While soloing a 5.5 route...

Him: "This thing's got some moves on it."
Me: "Yeah, wish I had some pro."
Him: "Don't fall on me."
Me: "No shit."

FLAG


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