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smallest/lightest locking biners?

Original Post
Marek Sapkovski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 65

I decided to replace all of my lockers, what are the lightest ones on the market? Is it Metolius Bravo?

acrophobe · · Orange, CT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

I suggest you go to weighmyrack. You can sort their carabiner list and come up with 9 other biners as light, or lighter than the Bravo. All but one are keylock, which would be important to me.

Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

I would keep one that has a round bar for belaying. It is little more weight but you gain in efficiency.

Not a fan of the Petzl 3D Attache. I found they open up on there own on many occasions. I am not the only one this has happened to.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

one warning about small biners ... if you intend to tie 10mm+ ropes to then its a biatch to clove

for thinner ropes they work fine

and they are a biatch with thicker gloves as well

theres some lockers that are both light and decently size ... ~50g gets you a full sized locking biner that you can handle easily ...

typically you dont carry a shiet load of lockers so the extra few grams over the small ones arent an issue

i also carry at least one very light HMS locker like a DMM sentinel ... eventually youll find yourself using it on a munter

;)

Danny M · · CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 125

The DMM Phantom lockers are great and one of the lightest, but they are kind of small for belaying or clove hitches. The DMM Shadow and BD Vaporlock are a way better all-around size.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Check this thing out. Super slick design, good hand feel, and the screw gate can rotate through the eye of a grigri 2.

grivel.com/products/rock/ca…

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

The Wild Country Ions are super light and work well for most knots and hitches. For anything where I need more space I use a Petzl Attache 3D.

Andy P. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 190

CAMP Photon lockers are a mainstay of my rack. At least when I bought them they were advertised as the lightest locking 'biners available. Bonus feature - the keylock bulge on the nose of the biner is very tiny and it acts as a great marlinspike to undo knots, I have untied countless tough knots using it.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Abram Herman wrote:The Wild Country Ions are super light and work well for most knots and hitches. For anything where I need more space I use a Petzl Attache 3D.
The Ion is a great caribiner. It's worth mentioning the Ion is the locking version of the Nitro/Helium.
NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

I carry a few of the WC Ion. Although I do notice that it is smaller than my partners larger BD lockers, the Ion's diminutive size has not been a problem. The Ion, like all the other WC biners that I have seen, are very well made.

Cale Hoopes · · Sammamish, WA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

+1 for the Attache 3D. Petzl got it right. I have a bunch of these.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i have a bunch of the trango flyweight lockers. not sure if they still make them, but i have really liked them. they are really small, so they can often fit in a small bolt/piton hole when it has some webbing threaded through the hole.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

62 grams

Edelrid HMS Strike Slider Automatic Locking Carabiner

slick lwt locker

Superfly LTW locker is 41g. So not the lightest locker.

I switched from the Superfly recently to the Strike. I really like the locking mechanism of the Edelrid a LOT better.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
Dane wrote:62 grams Edelrid HMS Strike Slider Automatic Locking Carabiner Superfly LTW locker is 41g. So not the lightest locker. I switched from the Superfly recently to the Strike. I really like the locking mechanism of the Edelrid a LOT better.
superfly is pretty damned close (according to weigh my rack).
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Be very careful with i-beam biners for belaying/rapping

Ive had those biners wear to a sharp edge quite quickly

Of course we should all replace our belay biners all the time quickly ... However it only takes about 1 mm of wear for some of these fancy biners to get a sharp edge that can damage the rope

A round stock biner is one that wear more evenly with less edges

The wear is made even worse if you are doing multiple raps off gritty ledges .... Or with some assisted locking devices like the smart that forces the rope against the biner all the time in a single spot (the megajul is likely the same)

For my main belay biner and extra few grams for a high wear item is something ill pay the penalty for

;)

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

I was quoting published weights off he internet web sites. On my scale Super fly is 38g. Strike 62g

I like the gates/lock better on the Strike. Have yet to use them in winter though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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