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Bug Spring Wall
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Lemmon Sanction, The S,TR 
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Small Town Boy T,S 

Small Town Boy 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 440
Submitted By: climber pat on Sep 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Bolts get farther apart as you climb but can be filled in with gear.


quick-draws, small to medium cams

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By Syasorus
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Same as the route to the right, there's no gear needed. There's a couple places for gear if you want to place some but it's absolutely not necessary.
By Eric Sophiea
May 3, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Hey Syasorus (Matt), saying that "there's no gear needed. There's a couple places for gear if you want to place some but it's absolutely not necessary" is really not helpful information. Especially since the FA party listed the climb as mixed (BGC). Here's the thing: It's awesome that you're not afraid of a 20 foot runout from the last bolt to the chains, but that's your call. There's great gear right there. And the last few moves up the water polished rock are not significantly easier than the grade of the climb, so someone who is just climbing at this grade may really want that gear. Sure, the other runout between bolts 4 & 5 is on easy ground, but if a hold breaks, you're looking at a 35 footer onto a bulge below you. But there's an easy cam placement if people aren't comfortable with that risk.

Making a claim that gear is "absolutely not necessary" sounds a lot like chest thumping. What's the point? Nothing is "necessary." I didn't hang or fall on that climb, so obviously, it's also not necessary to clip the bolts. But why would I post that? The gear is there, it's easy to place and it protects a potential 35+ foot fall.

I'm not trying to be an jerk. I just don't feel like comments about what is "not necessary" does any good for the community. As Patches O'Houlihan said: "Necessary? Is it necessary for me to drink my own urine? No, but I do it anyway because it's sterile and I like the taste. "