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Small Package Block

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bureau Headquarters 
CIA (Cannabis in Action) 
Cough it Up 
King of the Hill 
Quick Hit 
Wake 'n Bake 

Small Package Block 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 4, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Small Package Block.
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  • Description 

    Small Package Block (SPB) has 5 distinct but very short routes listed in Mark Rolofson's 2000 guide, ranging from 5.7 trad to 10a sport to 11a trad plus two climbs listed as projects in the 5.12-5.13 range. All routes are by Mark Rolofson, including the two bolted projects, with the exception of the 5.7 Cough it Up which Mark lists as FA unknown. SPB is worth a short visit. Perhaps the best thing to do is stop there on the hike down from a multi-pitch route on the main Blob wall, eg, Tempest, On Ballet, etc.

    SPB is in the running for the smallest crag in terms of surface area (excluding bouldering areas). In terms of total climbing length, it may not be the smallest. I'm thinking of, eg, Higher Security Risk, that has just 3 short routes, but routes that are longer than those at SPB.

    SPB has two 2-bolt anchors with rings. The two anchors are only a few feet apart. You can easily scramble to the top to set up a TR.

    L->R:

    A. Cough it Up, 7, 1p, 30', gear.
    B. Quick Hit, 9, 1p, 30', gear.
    C. Wake 'n Bake, 10-, 1p, 30', bolts.
    D. CIA (Cannabis in Action), 10+, 1p, 40', gear.
    E. Bureau Headquarters, 11-, 1p, 40', gear.
    F. King of the Hill, 13, 1p, 30', bolts.
    G. Bong Water?, 12


    Getting There 

    See Blob Rock for the parking and the approach to Blob Rock. Hike up the approach trail to Blob to the base of the gully area. Walk left below the main Blob wall. You'll see a prominent right facing corner. That's Divine Wind, 11a. Continue gently uphill past a number of short sport climbs, some extremely short. That's Comedy Wall. Beyond that the wall becomes low angle and soon it becomes possible to scramble up and right. You'll see a small outcrop with three right leaning cracks, the rightmost having a prominent white streak on its right side. That's Small Package Block. You'll walk right past Small Package Block as you descend to the west from the top of the multi-pitch climbs on the main Blob wall, such as The Tempest.


    6 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


    Featured Route For Small Package Block
    CIA is the right-leaning crack just right of the arete.

    CIA (Cannabis in Action) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Small Package Block
    CIA climbs the steep, right-leaning layback/jam crack just right of the arete that separates the left and right faces. I thought this was the best route on the crag. Although short, it felt like real climbing. I TR'd it on self-belay, and laybacked much of it with my left hand on the arete. It felt easier than 10d, Rolofson's rating, maybe 10b. Laybacking should be feasible on the lead, since there's a couple of good spots where you can stop and place gear....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Photos of Small Package Block Slideshow Add Photo
    Routes on the left side of Small Package Block.
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of Small Package Block.
    Blob Rock Area. <br /> <br />Original photo by Jack Wyatt.
    BETA PHOTO: Blob Rock Area.

    Original photo by Jack Wyatt.
    Comments on Small Package Block Add Comment
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    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 8, 2010

    Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
    www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
    Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

    Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

    Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

    These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

    The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
    For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/rock-climbing/brd/index.sht>>>.