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 ADVANCED
(9) New School Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dad's Nuts 
Gophers Gone Wild--Woo 
No Nuts 
Numb Nuts 
Small Nuts 

Small Nuts 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08
Page Views: 990
Submitted By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: From the bottom

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Description 

Climb left-facing dehidral system to lower-off anchors.


Location 

10ft right from 'Numb Nuts', before trail elevates to Old School Wall.


Protection 

Gear to 1.5" and Bolts



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By joet
From: Amherst, MA
Oct 18, 2009

kinda sketchy pro off the ground - be careful

By another Chad
Jan 8, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

Great climb with surprisingly little traffic. Run-out at times but there's gear (or a bolt) in the crux areas.



Chad

By Toby B
Apr 24, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The anchors for this route are in a really weird place--difficult to reach. I wound up bailing out left and reaching over to them.

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Sep 11, 2013

This is one of the few climbs I've done here that required more trad gear than quickdraws. A single set of cams from .5" to 2" will do fine. I didn't find the pro too sketchy either. Worth doing!