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Small Brown Mouse 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Robert Flaugher & Elaine Flaugher
Page Views: 2,566
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Apr 14, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Perfectly camoflauged Horny Toad free soloing his ...

Description 

Interesting crux at a bulge about halfway up. Good, safe bolt placements. Two-chain anchor on top (and for all routes on Ridgeline). Start directly behind the leftmost of three pine trees. This is the leftmost route on the rock.


Protection 

6 bolts



Photos of Small Brown Mouse Slideshow Add Photo
Seemed like a 9+ until the move I'm about to do in the picture, which is definitely more like a 10a for a short person. After that it's a ladder. Looks like it has big jugs, but nothing is as good as it looks and several moves are very thin. Easy to be overconfident on it and fall. Fun route. <br />
Seemed like a 9+ until the move I'm about to do in...
Muscling through the crux.
Muscling through the crux.
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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 8, 2005

If you are coming onto this route ("Small Brown Mouse") for the first time, it is at least a 5.9c. Luckily the bolts are placed well so that the spots where a climber is likely to have trouble will give you safe drops through the air. A fun, and exciting climb for intermeadiate leaders. Two Stars! I agree with Thorkel that this is the hardest route on this rock from an overall perspective. Tony Lusk's excellent "Firezone" has a more technical starting move, but dropping 4 feet off the mantle shelf does not produce the "freak-out" factor of falling from the muscle crux of SBM!

Desicon

By David C. Burke
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 11, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For anyone under 5'8" I would say this is more like 10a.

By nathan ekama
Jan 2, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I'm 6' and still haven't ticked SBM off. It's a very sustained climb, on the pumpy side and I'd argue for the 5.10a/b range.

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
May 21, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The bolt at the crux looks like it should be replaced (it is a bit loose in the rock).

By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

ditto above, 4th bolt at the roof has seen better days

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

haha 5.9+, that's a good one.