Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Plan B Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cube 
Cube direct 
Ender 
Got Shorty 
Groth Spurt 
High Anxiety 
Hustons Arete 
Irrationality 
Napolean Complex 
Napolean Face Left 
Napolean Face Right 
Press It Out 
Press it out Direct 
Resolution 
Schizophrenia (Right of Split Personality)  
Schlick It Up 
Seperation Anxiety 
Seperation face 
Seperatist, The 
Smack crack Left 
Smack Crack left Dyno 
Smack Crack Right 
Smack Crack WAY Right 
Split Personality 
Things just got harder 
Veasy AKA "Why Not?" 
Venom 
Warm up Center 
Warm up Left 
Warm up Right 

Smack Crack left Dyno 

Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: ?
Season: I don't know what to rate it but it is bit away.
Page Views: 667
Submitted By: Dobbe on Aug 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
grabbing the dyno

Description 

Climb inside corner of Smack Crack to good holds at center break and Dyno for the lip.

Location 

Smack Crack wall

Protection 

the more pads the better.


Photos of Smack Crack left Dyno Slideshow Add Photo
Dan getting it after try #4
Dan getting it after try #4
Smack crack Dyno
Smack crack Dyno
Myself getting ready
Myself getting ready
Got it
Got it

Comments on Smack Crack left Dyno Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 11, 2011
By Colin Erskine
From: Madison, WI
Nov 5, 2009
rating: V2 5+

You can use high feet or low feet to get this.
By Dobbe
Nov 9, 2009

The problem goes from that hold to the lip. This is just the start not the end. Sorry for any mix up in the description Colin.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 6, 2010
rating: V2 5+

fun problem. I must be too tall. No need for a dino.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 6, 2010

Man, I have been on this problem many times and never committed to the dyno. John, the photos above show Colin going to the hold where the dyno starts. As I understood it, the dyno should go from that hold to the top lip. Did you do that move statically? Hard to imagine, but hey, anything is possible. Where were your feet? I would like you to show me that move next time we're out there together. I just can't committ to the dyno and couldn't figure out any way to do it statically/deadpoint.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 6, 2010
rating: V2 5+

Chris,

It's still a very dynamic move. I used the same holds as in the pic. My right hand never left the start hold, and my feet didn't cut at all. If you are 6ft., you should be able to just hit the hold. Paul did it first, and being 6 ft 7in, it was even easier for him.

Hit me up via email and we can figure out a time to get out and do some bouldering.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 6, 2010

Right on John. I would like to see you guys on it. Maybe I just need to sack up, which is often the case! Headed to the Hills this weekend but let's get together later this summer for sure.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 6, 2010

I'm not seeing pictures of the "dyno" as I understand it. The hold it seems your "finishing on"/the break in the rock, is actually the start of the problem if I'm correct. and then it goes to the top. Dobbe could probably speak better to that. Or perhaps these just aren't full sequence pics and you did go to the lip, in which case, well done.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 6, 2010

What we really need is a Sweaty video.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 7, 2010
rating: V2 5+

After rereading the description, it doesnt sound like we did the dyno. So you go from the huge horizontal flake and dyno to the top?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 7, 2010

that is my understanding my friend.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 7, 2010
rating: V2 5+

looks like I'll have to go back and send it the real way. Ya!
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 11, 2011

I struggled a lot on this thing today, after quick sends of Press it Out, The Loner, and Day Dream Arete earlier in the day, and couldn't send (proper dyno from horizontal break to top). So in my mind the dyno is quite a bit stiffer than V2, I'd say V3/4 minimum. In the end, I simply threw a heel up onto the ledge that the dyno goes from and mantled up to the top statically, which felt about V2. Dynoing directly to the top feels quite a bit harder than V2, however.