Smack Crack left Dyno V2
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 feet |
| Consensus: | V2 [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Season: | I don't know what to rate it but it is bit away. |
| Submitted By: | Dobbe on Aug 1, 2008 |
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Smack crack Dyno
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Description Climb inside corner of Smack Crack to good holds at center break and Dyno for the lip.
Location Smack Crack wall
Protection the more pads the better.
Myself getting ready
| Got it
| Dan getting it after try #4
| grabbing the dyno
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| Comments on Smack Crack left Dyno |
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By Colin Erskine From: Madison, WI Nov 5, 2009 rating: V2
| You can use high feet or low feet to get this. |
By Dobbe Nov 9, 2009
| The problem goes from that hold to the lip. This is just the start not the end. Sorry for any mix up in the description Colin. |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Jul 6, 2010 rating: V2
| fun problem. I must be too tall. No need for a dino. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jul 6, 2010
| Man, I have been on this problem many times and never committed to the dyno. John, the photos above show Colin going to the hold where the dyno starts. As I understood it, the dyno should go from that hold to the top lip. Did you do that move statically? Hard to imagine, but hey, anything is possible. Where were your feet? I would like you to show me that move next time we're out there together. I just can't committ to the dyno and couldn't figure out any way to do it statically/deadpoint. |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Jul 6, 2010 rating: V2
| Chris, It's still a very dynamic move. I used the same holds as in the pic. My right hand never left the start hold, and my feet didn't cut at all. If you are 6ft., you should be able to just hit the hold. Paul did it first, and being 6 ft 7in, it was even easier for him. Hit me up via email and we can figure out a time to get out and do some bouldering. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jul 6, 2010
| Right on John. I would like to see you guys on it. Maybe I just need to sack up, which is often the case! Headed to the Hills this weekend but let's get together later this summer for sure. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Jul 6, 2010
| I'm not seeing pictures of the "dyno" as I understand it. The hold it seems your "finishing on"/the break in the rock, is actually the start of the problem if I'm correct. and then it goes to the top. Dobbe could probably speak better to that. Or perhaps these just aren't full sequence pics and you did go to the lip, in which case, well done. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jul 6, 2010
| What we really need is a Sweaty video. |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Jul 7, 2010 rating: V2
| After rereading the description, it doesnt sound like we did the dyno. So you go from the huge horizontal flake and dyno to the top? |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Jul 7, 2010
| that is my understanding my friend. |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Jul 7, 2010 rating: V2
| looks like I'll have to go back and send it the real way. Ya! |
By Dylan Colon From: Eugene, OR Jul 11, 2011
| I struggled a lot on this thing today, after quick sends of Press it Out, The Loner, and Day Dream Arete earlier in the day, and couldn't send (proper dyno from horizontal break to top). So in my mind the dyno is quite a bit stiffer than V2, I'd say V3/4 minimum. In the end, I simply threw a heel up onto the ledge that the dyno goes from and mantled up to the top statically, which felt about V2. Dynoing directly to the top feels quite a bit harder than V2, however. |
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