This is a fun climb. Start from ledge next to some graffiti and just right of Triple Delight, 5.12a. Be careful belaying from ledge, the rock to the sides of route is still chossy, and it's easy to fall off the ledge. There is an awkward move from last bolt to anchors, the route seems to move from the right to the anchors, but there is an older piton to the left of the anchors. We are unsure if the route perhaps moves left and up.
This is on the Northwest face of Turtle Rock under the obvious overhangs. Approach from down by Bob's (strenuous, uphill boulder hopping), or from the north-most side of Turtle Rock's parking/camping labyrinth (walk downhill and follow curve of the rocks left past many unnamed sport routes in the 10/11 range).
8 bolts, 2 single-ring anchors.
|By nate post|
Jun 1, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
It's still a little chossy if you step off route, but overall I thought it was a fun climb. Some of the blocks that looked questionable from the ground felt solid once I was climbing. It doesn't look like this has seen a lot of ascents yet. We had lunch in a nice dry cave just to the right while we waited for the rain to pass. It looks like some local teenagers have enjoyed hanging out here as well judging by the talented rock art.