Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Stewart Green and Martha Morris
Page Views: 3,657 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 27, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

S&M Crack is one of three routes at Sugarite dubbed as "megaclassics" by Dennis Jackson in his "Rock Climbing New Mexico" book. At 75 feet in length it is also the longest route at Sugarite.
Start off some blocks at the base following some broken flakes and finger crack from protection up to a large roof/bulge. Pull up and around the roof via some committing laybacking to the hand crack above.
If you're pumped like I was, a large ledge just off to the left about half way up the route offers a very good rest before you fire up the upper half.
Follow the overhanging hand crack with small edges for feet on the face for another 25 feet to the top. Watch for some loose rocks on top.

Location Suggest change

Far right side of the wall. The long crack is obvious.

Protection Suggest change

BD cams... Doubles of .3, .75, 1, 2. Singles of .4, .5, 3. Two-bolt anchor at the top just to the left of this crack serves as a rappel anchor too.

Photos

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