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S&M Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Stewart Green and Martha Morris
Page Views: 1,314
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 27, 2008
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Description 

S&M Crack is one of three routes at Sugarite dubbed as "megaclassics" by Dennis Jackson in his "Rock Climbing New Mexico" book. At 75 feet in length it is also the longest route at Sugarite.
Start off some blocks at the base following some broken flakes and finger crack from protection up to a large roof/bulge. Pull up and around the roof via some committing laybacking to the hand crack above.
If you're pumped like I was, a large ledge just off to the left about half way up the route offers a very good rest before you fire up the upper half.
Follow the overhanging hand crack with small edges for feet on the face for another 25 feet to the top. Watch for some loose rocks on top.


Location 

Far right side of the wall. The long crack is obvious.


Protection 

BD cams... Doubles of .3, .75, 1, 2. Singles of .4, .5, 3. Two-bolt anchor at the top just to the left of this crack serves as a rappel anchor too.



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The obvious crack in the center of the photo is S&M Crack.
BETA PHOTO: The obvious crack in the center of the photo is S&...
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By dennis jackson
Mar 2, 2009

FA Stewart Green and Martha Morris

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 2, 2009

Ah, and now the name makes sense. Thanks Dennis.