This route features fun and exposed face climbing and makes a great warmup for the harder climbs in the area.
Climb up the slabby first section past two bolts to a blocky narrow ledge. Plug in some gear and then climb up and right past 4 bolts to a small roof. Get a piece or two over the roof in a small seam. Yard over the roof and then step up and left to the last bolt. A few more moves and the fantastic belay ledge is reached.
Starts 45 ft left of Spry Look and a couple feet left of a 10 ft Juniper tree
Mixed, 7 bolts, red or yellow camolot, small tcus or c3s, small to medium nuts
|By Mike Reardon|
Nov 27, 2011
Great climb- steep, exposed, well protected, and many surprise holds.
Dec 13, 2011
most excellent route. nice to have a nut or small off set cam at the roof
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 30, 2012
Concur with all of the above. Excellent addition to Hanging Chain. I will caution one to be wary of the edges directly off the ledge, broke a large chunk off the first flake above the ledge on 1/29. Route is no harder/easier now. Tread gingerly as falling on the ledge would be no bueno!
Dec 31, 2012
Excellent pitch. Spry Look's mini me. :)
I got a green/yellow alien above the roof.
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013
That green sized alien is in pretty hollow rock. Best to get the smaller piece 6 inches or so higher.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 29, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I only placed a 2 at the start of the steeper section. Felt the bolts were adequate. Great climb with amazing edges. I felt like I didn't even have to hold on, the holds just grabbed me.