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Hanging Chain
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Sly Truths 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tim Snyder, Nathan Brown
Page Views: 1,368
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Nov 19, 2011
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Description 

This route features fun and exposed face climbing and makes a great warmup for the harder climbs in the area.

Climb up the slabby first section past two bolts to a blocky narrow ledge. Plug in some gear and then climb up and right past 4 bolts to a small roof. Get a piece or two over the roof in a small seam. Yard over the roof and then step up and left to the last bolt. A few more moves and the fantastic belay ledge is reached.


Location 

Starts 45 ft left of Spry Look and a couple feet left of a 10 ft Juniper tree


Protection 

Mixed, 7 bolts, red or yellow camolot, small tcus or c3s, small to medium nuts



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By Mike Reardon
Nov 27, 2011

Great climb- steep, exposed, well protected, and many surprise holds.

By Phoffmann
Dec 13, 2011

most excellent route. nice to have a nut or small off set cam at the roof

By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 30, 2012

Concur with all of the above. Excellent addition to Hanging Chain. I will caution one to be wary of the edges directly off the ledge, broke a large chunk off the first flake above the ledge on 1/29. Route is no harder/easier now. Tread gingerly as falling on the ledge would be no bueno!

By BruceBurgessNC
Dec 31, 2012

Excellent pitch. Spry Look's mini me. :)

I got a green/yellow alien above the roof.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013

That green sized alien is in pretty hollow rock. Best to get the smaller piece 6 inches or so higher.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 29, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I only placed a 2 at the start of the steeper section. Felt the bolts were adequate. Great climb with amazing edges. I felt like I didn't even have to hold on, the holds just grabbed me.