Sly Hooks 5.10c/d
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Tim Snyder, Nathan Brown |
| Submitted By: | gneiss pirate on Nov 19, 2011 |
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Description This route features fun and exposed face climbing and makes a great warmup for the harder climbs in the area. Climb up the slabby first section past two bolts to a blocky narrow ledge. Plug in some gear and then climb up and right past 4 bolts to a small roof. Get a piece or two over the roof in a small seam. Yard over the roof and then step up and left to the last bolt. A few more moves and the fantastic belay ledge is reached.
Location Starts 45 ft left of Spry Look and a couple feet left of a 10 ft Juniper tree
Protection Mixed, 7 bolts, red or yellow camolot, small tcus or c3s, small to medium nuts
By Mike Reardon Nov 27, 2011
| Great climb- steep, exposed, well protected, and many surprise holds. |
By Phoffmann Dec 13, 2011
| most excellent route. nice to have a nut or small off set cam at the roof |
By rock_fencer From: Columbia, SC Jan 30, 2012
| Concur with all of the above. Excellent addition to Hanging Chain. I will caution one to be wary of the edges directly off the ledge, broke a large chunk off the first flake above the ledge on 1/29. Route is no harder/easier now. Tread gingerly as falling on the ledge would be no bueno! |
By BruceBurgessNC Dec 31, 2012
| Excellent pitch. Spry Look's mini me. :) I got a green/yellow alien above the roof. |
By nbrown From: western NC Jan 7, 2013
| That green sized alien is in pretty hollow rock. Best to get the smaller piece 6 inches or so higher. |
By TomCaldwell From: Clemson, S.C. Mar 29, 2013 rating: 5.10c
| I only placed a 2 at the start of the steeper section. Felt the bolts were adequate. Great climb with amazing edges. I felt like I didn't even have to hold on, the holds just grabbed me. |
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