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Sly Corner (Naysayer) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nathan Brown - belayed by TS / direct finish - rope solo
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: nbrown on Jan 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the bomber (and crucial) cam at the start ...

Description 

This is a fun route with varied climbing. Of the two lines here, this is the one that was established without prior TR rehearsal (although we did look at it briefly). It was originally done late in the day after finishing up another project, so time was of essence. The route was established in about an hour, and with one point of aid at the base of the corner since the gear was originally poor, and the park was about to close. It was repointed solo a few days later. The sketchy gear was improved at the start of the corner (we'd actually considered a bolt previously).

Also, a couple months ago we discussed the possibility of the line finishing directly up instead of traversing out right (we'd originally considered this). The route now finishes this way, past an additional bolt.

P-1
Start same as for Sly Hooks. Climb past same 2 bolts to the ledge. Move up past gear and a bolt into the corner on great jugs. Get some crucial gear here (.5 camelot - see picture) and work out a funky move into the corner. Climb it to the top. From here climb up past 2 more bolts to an anchor. Two options exist for the finish - straight up is about 11c, right and up is 11a or so.

Location 

Same start as Sly Hooks. Climbs the obvious right facing corner just to the left of Sly Hooks.

Protection 

Small nuts and cams to #3 camelot. Make sure the gear at the crux is good as there is ledge-out potential if it pulls.


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By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013

Bruce, sorry to hear you had such a bad experience on the route. I've heard pretty okay reviews from other folks that have climbed it, so I'm a little surprised. Unfortunately the natural features on the wall dictate how the route climbs, and I definitely agree that solid gear at the base of the corner is paramount (the gear is quite good if you place it ~ .5 camelot). As is the case with a lot of routes in this region, it's probably more suitable as a top-rope ascent for some climbers.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013

No, I think it would have been best to add a bolt first to make it safe. I hear that's all the rage these days...

Seriously though, the gear is good - see picture.

Update 1/29: We'd previously discussed a direct finish and another anchor last time I was there. It's been a couple months, but I got back out there today and decided to add it since the line seems to be getting a good bit of traffic these days.
By gneiss pirate
Jan 29, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Overall its an interesting climb but future suitors shouldn't expect to be bedazzled by it. If you want that, go climb Spiders and Snakes. That one will put a wiggle in your stride(thanks Eddie).
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Nov 13, 2013

I thought the gear was good. The jug at the roof made it easy to figure that piece out. The direct finish is the way to go. Really enjoyed the pump at the last two bolts. No reason this should get an avoid rating. How about the #5 Rock on Inner Peace? Classic NC trad, this one is easier to place.