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Slowdancer 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Eric Barrett, et. al.
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To the right of "Hard Up", climb up to a crack. Follow this (5.9) and climb the face above.

Protection 

Pro to 1.5", slings for knobs.


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By Mike McL
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Oct 3, 2015

link this one up with Penny Candy for a good route. Heads up at the start.
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Jun 4, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a really fun route, especially with the Penny Candy linkup.
It would make a nice lead except for the very sketchy and dangerous start. And judging by only one "lead" in the Tick list I don't think I'm the only one who thinks this.

I'll probably get flak for saying this, but as the route already has 2 bolts, adding a third bolt right by the boldery start does not seem to me to be out of order. Yes, you can get a piece of gear in there, but it's not a great placement and it's also where a critical finger jam is. Is it dumbing down the route? possibly. But I think it's better to have people leading routes than just TR'ing them.

I'm sure it would get a lot more leads if that extra bolt was there. Just a thought.

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