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Slow Train Coming 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jimmy Ratzlaff and Steve Hadik
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,036
Submitted By: Craig Quincy on Dec 14, 2002
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Eldorado Canyon. Slow Train Coming. Isaac Therneau...
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    An excellent bolted slab climb in a fantastic location and with a name from a Bob Dylan song to boot!

    Surprisingly this route does not receive as much flack as Genius Loci for being so close to a classic trad route. Perhaps it makes people feel silly to rail against a Slow Train that's coming. Anyway, the climbing is devious and requires wicked foot work on tiny holds. This is a good route to do if you're coming down from the Upper Ramp with time on your hands. It could also be used as an alternative start to the Naked Edge. (But only after you've done the real first pitch.)

    After finding your way to the first pitch of the Edge, climb down a few feet and head right around the corner. It's a little airy over there which adds to the excitement. Then climb up and left passing the 2nd and 3rd bolts and the crux of the climb. Hang in there on small holds and think positive thoughts about your footwork. If your toes are going numb, you're probably doing something right. This route ends at the same bolted anchor as pitch one of the Edge. Eight bolts total, no gear necessary on this pitch.


    Protection 

    10 QDs (plus standard Eldo rack to get up there).



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    By Matt Juth
    From: Evergreen
    Dec 21, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    Beautiful face climbing! A little spicy on the easier rock on the second half of the pitch, but safe and enjoyable throughout.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 9, 2009
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    Thin is in!
    The 'Slow Train' that is coming is the forearm pump if you are not wearing good edging shoes. Luckily it gets easier as you head up. I got rail-roaded today & finished with nothing left.

    By George K. Watson
    From: Nederland, CO
    Jul 5, 2010

    I did this years ago with Derek Hersey and Jon Grayson and none of us thought it was harder than 10+ (c/d). A small TCU can be used under a little overlap to make it a bit less 'spicy'. It's a little heretical being this close to P1 of the NE, but the climbing is nice.