slow drag (loose block overhang variation)
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Derrick Peppers just past the crux of loose block ...
Boulder up between two columns with no placements until you get to the obvious S-shaped crack above you. Small hands to full hands ends quickly at a roof. Shoot left along the shelf to the giant ledge and anchors. You can link to the second pitch of loose block but make sure you sling well or deal with bad drag.
Start this climb about ten feet right of the arete for Loose Block Overhang.
Pro to 1.5" chains at top.
|Comments on slow drag (loose block overhang variation)
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This is the right hand variation of the first pitch of loose block overhang.
If you skip the chain anchor and link directly into the overhang on P2, it makes for a good longer pitch, and takes you to the actual Slapfest anchors (which are shared w/ P2 of loose block)