This route climbs up to and out the intriguing, obvious, left-facing and angling dihedral/roof system on the far right side of the wall.
Climb up the right side of the obtuse scoop on the lower face via delicate edges and flakes at 5.9 (this protects reasonably well with small nuts) then to big holds at the beginning of the roof. Traverse left passing 3 pins, and the climbing gets thin. A good nut protects the tricky crux with desperate feet. Continue to the top and the anchors for Take Five are just to your left.
This route is on the far right of the Little Blob Wall.
Micro-nuts, small nuts, and small cams.
|By Wayne Crill|
From: an Altered State
Oct 27, 2013
This is a fun route with good gear through the crux. I don't think it gets climbed much, I'm sure the name and the published severity grade scare away most suitors, but it's worth doing, especially now that a lot of the lichen has been cleared off. With more traffic, it would clean up nicely. I'm sure it's related to skill (or lack thereof), but I thought it was reachy through the crux. Mild early season jalepeno spicy on my three pepper scale = probably more PG than PG-13.