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The Cirque
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Sloth 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brian McCray, 1996
Page Views: 1,308
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Heather on Sloth going into the crux moves

Description 

Difficult start with minimal footholds at a very shallow and short left facing corner. Figure out how to reach the obvious nice hold at the top of the shallow corner. Make another reachy move to a good hold and then traverse left about 6 ft to reach an awesome wide rail. From here, it's fairly easy moves on flakes to reach bolt 4. After the clip, reach up and right to reach a crimp and then increasingly positive holds, then traverse back left, trying not to barn door off a small flake below the overhang (crux). Use very small feet to make a big move to a jug and clip bolt 5. Continue up to the anchors.

Location 

This route is located approximately in the center of the Cirque. If you locate the obvious graffiti dihedral, head right for another 20 yards. Look for a chalky line that follows featured rock up and left.

Protection 

6 bolts, shuts.


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By ----
Apr 1, 2011

This route is totally awesome and different from the typical cirque route. Expect lots of crimps and sustained difficult moves the whole way. The only thing that would keep this route from being four stars is its short length, but the consistency of the moves (no fluff), makes up for that short coming.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 4, 2011

now, i found the bottom of this route a bit height dependent. if you're tall, you can just reach through the slopers to a flat jug. shorties gotta use opposing sloper gastons plus some gnarly hip/knee scum beta. rest of the route is fun, typical nrg big moves betweeen horizontals.
By Blake Cash
Nov 29, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Definitely no hip scums, but I'm 5'11 and got a left hand side pull crimp, hit a right hand gaston, then brought up a right foot and just jumped for the jug...as did my 5'9 girlfriend.