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BETA PHOTO: Taken by Morgan Brown from base of Slot Nose
This is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock. Bruce Morris's guidebook has a good topo. Crux is just below the first bolt; a fairly tricky mantle. Climb left from the first bolt, up 5.4 rock, then ascend the eponymous "slot" just below the anchor. An arm-bar may be useful here.
Variation: From the first bolt, climb left and ascend the obvious arete to the anchor. Probably goes about 5.9. It's tricky to clip the bolt when leading this variation.
Two bolts on route, two-bolt anchor. Warning: one bolt has a rappel ring. Nobody likes to rap from one bolt -- can someone put some new hardware up there? I equalized the rig with a biner, but someone took it.
Protection update: There are two rappel rings, not one. (4/24/2016)
BETA PHOTO: Don Simmons tackles the 5.8 crux of "Slot Nos...
BETA PHOTO: West Face of Shady Rock, CRSP. Photos by Morgan B...
From: Reno, NV
Sep 6, 2011
The second bolt is loose on this climb. Really loose.
Not a hard climb but wouldn't want a first time leader slipping out of the slot.
By ToDoubleD Whitney
From: Aptos, CA
Apr 14, 2014
All bolts are in good shape as of today and the rappel rings are brand new.