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Shady Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Influence S,TR 
Cotton Mouth S,TR 
Dog Breath T,S,TR 
Herpes Simplex S,TR 
Slot Nose S,TR 
Small Man Complex S 
Special Effects S,TR 
Tall Man Simplex S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 

Slot Nose 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,144
Submitted By: Morgan Brown on Aug 31, 2002  with updates from Drew S.

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BETA PHOTO: Taken by Morgan Brown from base of Slot Nose

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


This is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock. Bruce Morris's guidebook has a good topo. Crux is just below the first bolt; a fairly tricky mantle. Climb left from the first bolt, up 5.4 rock, then ascend the eponymous "slot" just below the anchor. An arm-bar may be useful here.

Variation: From the first bolt, climb left and ascend the obvious arete to the anchor. Probably goes about 5.9. It's tricky to clip the bolt when leading this variation.


Two bolts on route, two-bolt anchor. Warning: one bolt has a rappel ring. Nobody likes to rap from one bolt -- can someone put some new hardware up there? I equalized the rig with a biner, but someone took it.

Protection update: There are two rappel rings, not one. (4/24/2016)

Photos of Slot Nose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Don Simmons tackles the 5.8 crux of "Slot Nos...
BETA PHOTO: Don Simmons tackles the 5.8 crux of "Slot Nos...
Rock Climbing Photo: West Face of Shady Rock, CRSP.  Photos by Morgan B...
BETA PHOTO: West Face of Shady Rock, CRSP. Photos by Morgan B...

Comments on Slot Nose Add Comment
Show which comments
By slk
From: Reno, NV
Sep 6, 2011

The second bolt is loose on this climb. Really loose.

Not a hard climb but wouldn't want a first time leader slipping out of the slot.
By ToDoubleD Whitney
From: Aptos, CA
Apr 14, 2014

All bolts are in good shape as of today and the rappel rings are brand new.

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