|The Golden Wall
Grovel, grovel, and grovel some more in this full-body offwidth. Crux, for many, is just moving up - not everyone can climb offwidth.
Climb the big, obvious offwidth crack 10 feet left of Fickle Fingers and 20 feet left of Golden Dream. Route goes to the right of the large chockstone at the top. Easy walk-off.
Decent gear, especially off to the sides. Gear-only anchor at the top.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010
I didn't see the "decent" gear as described above. It's an offwidth the entire way, with very little gear. A #5 is too small to protect the offwidth. I would not lead this climb, as I don't think it takes great pro. The climbing is easy (think lay back the entire way)and there are a couple of horizontals. But, you are going to solo a LONG way before you get in any pro. Fun to TR, good for moderately experienced newbs.
|By Brendan Blanchard|
From: Strafford, NH
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
I didn't find the gear to be awful or terribly sparse. I placed 5 or 6 pieces, and the only real run-out was the first bulge. I think PG/13 is a fair warning. Not perfect, but also not a death defying lack of gear.
After the runout, a #2BD fits very well, tucked back underneath an outcrop in the crack. You could haul wide gear up, but it would seem a little silly. It's also a lieback, rather than OW, unless you like making things harder than they should be.