Slot Machine 5.9
| 1,759 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob Milward, Jim Campbell April 1983 |
| Submitted By: | Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006 |
| |
Slot Machine from the 1st Belay.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This is one of the best 5.9's in the area and sees heavy traffic. From the stiff start in the begging to the endless hand jams this climb is a must do.
The crux is located immediately off the ground but good gear is at your waist. The climbing easy off quiet a bit after that. Climb the obvious crack from the middle ledge.
Protection Single set of cams
Looks like Kari is having a great time on Slot Mac...
|
BETA PHOTO: second pitch of slot machine
|
Tristan on pitch 1
|
Tristan on pitch 1
|
Tristan on pitch 1
|
Topping out on Slot Machine, great views looking s...
| | | |
By Dpurf
From: Superior
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.9
| The Guide book does not show it, but someone has added a rap rings to the Tree at the top of the 2nd and also to the tree a top the 1st.
**** Please use the walk off *****
If you rap you will be pissing off the line people coming up. The walk off is nice and easy. From the top of the climb move back and left and you can't miss the trail. It will take you right back to the base of the climb. |
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007
| There's also several ways of getting your ropes stuck, between the angle of the buttress, the mid-route tree, and the crack itself. I would have preferred to walk off!
I thought the starting moves only had a little bit of 5.10 in them (especially after I plugged up the best hold with gear ;-0), and I found them a bit reachy. |
By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
Jun 16, 2009
| There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the second. Keep the line going straight up the crack and top out on the slabby arete. |
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Only the first move is hard, the rest is a lark. Good route to take beginners who want a bit of the mountain experience without committing to hauling them up the apron.
There's anchor bolts at the top of the second pitch if you keep going up the wide crack past the tree anchor...that got me confused to be honest.
We were deliberating whether to rap down or not, but the walk-off was really quite straight forward and probably faster too. |
By Crotch Robbins
Sep 15, 2011
rating: 5.9
| A single 5.9 move at the start, then 5.7 or easier the rest of the way. |
By Sean H
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.8
| Without a doubt, 5.8, not 5.9. First pitch was quite clean and fun though.
The second pitch, however, is a joke, as far as difficulty is concerned. I just ran the whole rope out to the top without placing pro and hip belayed up my partner. I'm NOT a hardman by any means.
That said, from looking at the book we thought the "standard" means of descent was to rap both pitches, not walk off. So rap is what we did.
If the walk off is in fact straight forward as others say, then quickly do the second pitch and walk off. If you're thinking of rapping, or are just the kind of climber that tries to squeeze in as many good pitches in a day as you can...do the first pitch and just rap off. |
|
RSS Feed
17 more...
Slideshow
