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Slot Machine 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Milward, Jim Campbell April 1983
Page Views: 2,539
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Slot Machine from the 1st Belay.

Description 

This is one of the best 5.9's in the area and sees heavy traffic. From the stiff start in the begging to the endless hand jams this climb is a must do.

The crux is located immediately off the ground but good gear is at your waist. The climbing easy off quiet a bit after that. Climb the obvious crack from the middle ledge.

Protection 

Single set of cams


Photos of Slot Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Looks like Kari is having a great time on Slot Machine.
Looks like Kari is having a great time on Slot Mac...
Tristan on pitch 1
Tristan on pitch 1
second pitch of slot machine
BETA PHOTO: second pitch of slot machine
Tristan on pitch 1
Tristan on pitch 1
Tristan on pitch 1
Tristan on pitch 1
Topping out on Slot Machine, great views looking south towards Howe Sound
Topping out on Slot Machine, great views looking s...

Comments on Slot Machine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dpurf
From: Superior
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The Guide book does not show it, but someone has added a rap rings to the Tree at the top of the 2nd and also to the tree a top the 1st.

**** Please use the walk off *****

If you rap you will be pissing off the line people coming up. The walk off is nice and easy. From the top of the climb move back and left and you can't miss the trail. It will take you right back to the base of the climb.
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007

There's also several ways of getting your ropes stuck, between the angle of the buttress, the mid-route tree, and the crack itself. I would have preferred to walk off!

I thought the starting moves only had a little bit of 5.10 in them (especially after I plugged up the best hold with gear ;-0), and I found them a bit reachy.
By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
Jun 16, 2009

There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the second. Keep the line going straight up the crack and top out on the slabby arete.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Only the first move is hard, the rest is a lark. Good route to take beginners who want a bit of the mountain experience without committing to hauling them up the apron.

There's anchor bolts at the top of the second pitch if you keep going up the wide crack past the tree anchor...that got me confused to be honest.

We were deliberating whether to rap down or not, but the walk-off was really quite straight forward and probably faster too.
By Crotch Robbins
Sep 15, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A single 5.9 move at the start, then 5.7 or easier the rest of the way.
By Sean H
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Without a doubt, 5.8, not 5.9. First pitch was quite clean and fun though.

The second pitch, however, is a joke, as far as difficulty is concerned. I just ran the whole rope out to the top without placing pro and hip belayed up my partner. I'm NOT a hardman by any means.

That said, from looking at the book we thought the "standard" means of descent was to rap both pitches, not walk off. So rap is what we did.

If the walk off is in fact straight forward as others say, then quickly do the second pitch and walk off. If you're thinking of rapping, or are just the kind of climber that tries to squeeze in as many good pitches in a day as you can...do the first pitch and just rap off.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

new book gives it 5.8, which is a bit stiff (the start) by squamish standards. fun route.
By Ed kelly
Aug 6, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun first pitch, really loved it. To me it was the platonic ideal of a 5.8, although I understand people arguing that the first 10 feet are harder. The second pitch is a bit of a joke. keep going straight up and across the almost flat slab/arette to a bolt anchor and you'lle really enjoy the exposed position, rather than going left to a big tree with lots of slings. Definitely walk off. It's straight forward and the lower half of the crack seems like it would eat ropes.
By Clint Landrock
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb. Both pitches are superb, even if the 2nd pitch is quite a bit easier it's still fun. Definitely use the walk-off (<5 mins), no reason to rap. There is a two-bolt anchor near the top of pitch 1, which could be used instead of the tree. I wasn't sure if these anchors were for Slot Machine or the link-up for Stairway, so I choose to continue to the small tree belay. The tree in my opinion is borderline good, but can be backed up with a couple of pieces and long slings in the crack for the start of pitch 2. Comparing with some 5.9s in the smoke bluffs, pitch 1 fits the grade, however there are two cracks to choose from and lots of possible combos for the climbing so I can see some feeling it's 5.8. Don't underestimate the climbing on pitch 1 after the first couple moves, it doesn't get a whole lot easier, although there are quite a few rests. I didn't take any doubles with me, and wished I had a couple more in the 1 inch range, you can leave the small stuff at home for this one. Pitch 2 is solid 5.6 crack climbing (5.7 if you go from the bolt belay below the tree), and finishes on an exposed unprotected arete - very cool position! You can bail out left of the arete to make it easier / more secure, but I highly recommend taking the high road (see photo).
Easy, but exposed/airy finish to pitch 2 on Slot Machine.
Easy, but exposed/airy finish to pitch 2 on Slot Machine.
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By rl23455
From: Portland, OR
Jul 26, 2014

Tough off the ground start. The new book says 5.8, not in my opinion, 5.9 start. The hollow sounding flake/rock farther up sounds to me like it could fall at any time. It's just laying there in the notch.