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Slot Machine 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Richard Wright
Page Views: 1,760
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Mar 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

Start with People's Choice and climb the first two pitches to the belay below the dihedral. Slot Machine is a newly bolted line (since Rolofson's print of CCC) that takes the overhanging face just right of the dihedral. First, before starting the route, watch out for a DEATH block that sits right at the start--this cube of granite is ready to blow. Some powerful moves with slopey to crimpy holds leads to a steep mantel with tricky positioning. After this crux, the angle eases up for the last three bolts to the chains. Fun, pumpy route with great exposure, but with all the noise of the cars and river right below you, it's hard to hear your belayer. Richard Wright: the c is for the mantle move if you're short.


Protection 

8 bolts to a double chain. A 50m rope is adequate to rap back to the belay, then once more to a sloping ledge, which can be downclimbed.



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By Jesse Ryan
Nov 5, 2001

What is the line marked '19' on the photo here? I found it to have interesting moves but a bit chossy at the start.

By Bryson Slothower
Mar 15, 2002

Watch out for a very loose hold around the third bolt. It was critical to the move just above the bolt (for me at least) and it is a large chalked up fin of rock that's cracked around the base and moving. It makes for a great hold but...waaahhhh!!!!

By Luke Evans
Nov 24, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

The loose block around the 3rd bolt is still there and still pretty scary. Either this route doesn't get climbed much or the block just Sounds and Feels lke it is going to come out. The mantle is a beast and very hard to read the first time up it. Great route though!

By davecro
From: Golden, CO
Nov 15, 2011

Fun and exposed! This route deserves more traffic.