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Slot Machine 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Conz, Sal Mamusia- July 1990
Page Views: 1,675
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Mar 13, 2004
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A French Canadian cruisin

Description 

This route start as for Dark shadows up the 5.5 slab past 2 bolts, when you reach the left angling ramp of DS head right towards a thin, steep, crack up a varnished face.

The climbing is similiar to the second pitch of Risky business, as is the pro. There is more gear then you think and it always shows up when you need it.

A very good route.

Descent: Rap with 2 ropes.


Protection 

SR include RP's and maybe 2 sets of small cams



Photos of Slot Machine Slideshow Add Photo
The route...
The route...
Joe following the upper face on Slot Machine.
Joe following the upper face on Slot Machine.
This is a great climb.  Now I just need to get the cajones to put it up myself.
This is a great climb. Now I just need to get the...
Joe at the last cruxy moves to the anchor...
Joe at the last cruxy moves to the anchor...
Sustained thin climbing on tiny gear down low.
Sustained thin climbing on tiny gear down low.
Comments on Slot Machine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Great route that rewards small fingers at the crux "slot". Good gear, no reason to get hurt, but some spicy moves above the crux make for a good heart pumper. A lesser-gem that is a must-do for the 5.10 Red Rock leader. Only one rope is needed to get down. One rap to the first pitch anchor on Shadows then another short rtap into the stream.....

By MJW
From: Boise, ID
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

This is a good one! Good holds and stances appear when in doubt. I used small nuts and tcu's on the headwall part. Didn't need the brass.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Definitely got my heart pumping! And I definitely was happy to have my brassies along.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Oh, and calling this a finger crack, or as the Handren guide says, a "tips crack" is just ridiculous. Ther is like *one* (maybe two) finger locks. It's a seam/crack for protection, and 99.99% face climbing.

By Mitch Musci
Oct 19, 2011

This is a wonderful pitch with an emphasis on skillful rp placements. I brought dmm offset brassies 1-5, and bd micronuts 2-5, and placed most of them. It seemed like half the placements were bomber, while the other half were decent. A fairly heady lead on sandstone...granted, the stone on this pitch is high quality. The movement is excellent and sustained at the grade, with only a couple of good rests. A very memorable climb!

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I was very happy to have brass and microcams for this seam with occasional thin crack moves. Think I placed 10 on the pitch and glad for everyone. The crux moves were right off the smallest gear.