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Turret Dome
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Sloppy Shoes S 
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Sloppy Shoes 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dennis Jump and Stewart Green
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,075
Submitted By: Stewart M. Green on Apr 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Dennis Jump on the first ascent of Sloppy Shoes.
P...

Description 

This excellent sport route is down right from the "Guide's Route" and immediately right of the route named "Unknown 5.8" here. Start below a right-angling groove. Layback past a leaning crack (#2 Camalot) to a short bottoming crack. Work up the shallow groove with delicate smears and edges past 3 bolts. Finish up left on easier rock past another bolt to the final bolt on "Unknown 5.8". Surmount a short headwall to a 2-bolt anchor on a shelf.


Protection 

5 quickdraws, #2 Camalot, also another small Camalot or large wire for the nervous.



Photos of Sloppy Shoes Slideshow Add Photo
Car Stud and Sloppy Shoes bolts -- both can use the same anchor.  There is also another sport route 10 ft left of Car Stud.
BETA PHOTO: Car Stud and Sloppy Shoes bolts -- both can use th...
Comments on Sloppy Shoes Add Comment
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By Larry Shaw
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The water groove felt the same as the 11mile dome east face direct. nice and thin edging and smearing.

By Livia
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 10, 2005

Very fun route. It is possible to top-rope this climb after leading the 5.8 just to the left (unknown 1).

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This is a fun route, worth leading for anyone that does 5.10 slabs, and easy to top rope from Car Stud's anchors if you don't want to lead it. You can protect the climb below the first bolt with about a #3 Camalot. It's a great (although short) layback up the start of the crack. The crux was the water groove above where the crack fizzles out. It's very thin there, and I struggled to get up it, but the smooth crux can be bypassed about 4 feet on the left (still easy reach of bolts) with a few 5.8ish moves.