Sloppy Shoes 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Dennis Jump and Stewart Green |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Stewart M. Green on Apr 20, 2004 |
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Dennis Jump on the first ascent of Sloppy Shoes.
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Description This excellent sport route is down right from the "Guide's Route" and immediately right of the route named "Unknown 5.8" here. Start below a right-angling groove. Layback past a leaning crack (#2 Camalot) to a short bottoming crack. Work up the shallow groove with delicate smears and edges past 3 bolts. Finish up left on easier rock past another bolt to the final bolt on "Unknown 5.8". Surmount a short headwall to a 2-bolt anchor on a shelf.
Protection 5 quickdraws, #2 Camalot, also another small Camalot or large wire for the nervous.
BETA PHOTO: Car Stud and Sloppy Shoes bolts -- both can use th...
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By Larry Shaw
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.10b
| The water groove felt the same as the 11mile dome east face direct. nice and thin edging and smearing. |
By Livia
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 10, 2005
| Very fun route. It is possible to top-rope this climb after leading the 5.8 just to the left (unknown 1). |
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| This is a fun route, worth leading for anyone that does 5.10 slabs, and easy to top rope from Car Stud's anchors if you don't want to lead it. You can protect the climb below the first bolt with about a #3 Camalot. It's a great (although short) layback up the start of the crack. The crux was the water groove above where the crack fizzles out. It's very thin there, and I struggled to get up it, but the smooth crux can be bypassed about 4 feet on the left (still easy reach of bolts) with a few 5.8ish moves. |
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