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The Courtyard
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Sliver of Light 

Sliver of Light 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Nelson Day on Oct 13, 2011
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Sliver of Light 5.10b

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Description 

This route includes 6 bolts to a chain anchor. The crux is definitely at the fourth bolt, as you pass from the "joint" of the bottom rock onto the slab of the upper rock. This crux is very well protected by the fourth bolt. After the crux, you will traverse to the left across a slabby section with good feet and hands, clipping 2 more bolts. Rap from the fixed anchor.

This route is identified as the tallest formation on the right as you enter The Courtyard area.

Note: I would not recommend cleaning this route on rappel. The rappel will take you straight down (approximately 30 feet) to a lower rock. Walk to your right on this rock, and then continue the rappel down the chimney crack to the start of the climb.


Location 

North side of The Courtyard. Morning shade.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors



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Sliver of Light (5.10d), The Cemetery
BETA PHOTO: Sliver of Light (5.10d), The Cemetery
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 23, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Like many of the routes in the area holds have broken making this harder than originally rated. The bouldery crux at the 4th bolt involves an edge for the left hand and a crimp for the right with poor feet as you mantle up onto a small edge.