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Perfect height, great moves, and devious holds. This powerful, delicate arete is a hidden gem and now one of my favorites in the park. Sit start with a three finger jug for your left hand and a crimp for your right. Slither up to two tiny crimps using a sidepull before powering into a gaston pinch. With the help of another crimp and an undercling, make a hard deadpoint up to one of two crimps before snagging the flat sloping lip which feels like a jug.
V5 from the stand, starting by jumping to the gaston.
Five minutes up the Fire Tower Trail, where the trail takes a hard right turn, head left/downhill on a faint footpath where you can see the pond through the trees. When on the footpath, this boulder is the leftmost rock that is visible. The problem climbs the arete behind the tree.
Two pads and a spotter.
BETA PHOTO: The tiny crimps...
|By Jeremiah Johnson|
From: Hershey PA
Feb 3, 2010
Judging from the picture, I think this might be a problem that Kurt Oian and I put up many years ago (summer of 2002, maybe?) back when we were first exploring the fire tower, though it's hard to tell for certain. It was so humid that day that we used rubbing alcohol to dry our hands off before climbing it. I'm glad to see it up here; it was a good one.