Slipstream  5.11+

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest New Route:  Yes Season:  Fall, Winter, Spring Submitted By:  JJ Schlick on Mar 4, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

JJ, on the FA of Slipstream...

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Description 

Slipstream is a long awaited pitch which tackles the beautiful bulging green center of the Main Wall.

Start on Solitaire, and clip the first four bolts of that route. I had a draw, and then a full length runner on bolt #4, and this worked pretty well. Stay well below the first chain draw on Solitaire, and move left with big feet, and a few scrappy hand holds. Mantel the small ledge, and prepare yourself for some serious tech festing. The boulder problem crux of the route comes right off the ledge, and there are a couple ways of doing it. A perfect, miracle finger lock appears just when you want it, but it is a short lived pleasure. Crimp your way to the large orange rail up and right, then mantel your way to another set of hard moves that guard the angle break. At this point the grade drops, and the last 20' of climbing is a pleasure cruise up fantastic features to the fixed biner anchor.

Location 

Shares the start and first 4 bolts of Solitaire.

Protection 

A total of twelve bolts, and as many long draws as you have. One full runner with a draw on bolt #4 works well.

The best way to clean this route would be to have someone follow it, however, it is by no means a nightmare to clean on the way down.

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BETA PHOTO: Left/Center Main Wall	Standing on the small ledge. The next set of boul...	JJ, on the FA of Slipstream...