Slippery When Wet
||Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II
|Original: ||WI4 [details]|
|FA: ||Kevin Donald & Duncan Ferguson, ~'75|
|Page Views: ||4,182|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2005|
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At the anchor on top of the route. Climber climbin...
This is a very fun route uphill from Skylight
. This was shown in the ice video, On Ice
P1. The 1st pitch goes up to a small cave, WI3.
P2. Break out of cave and left (crux), and fire up beautiful groove/dihedral to the top, ~WI4.
Rappel 50m. Per doligo
: a 60m rope comfortably gets you all the way to the tree from the road.
Ice screws and a lack of brains.
Slippery When Wet on Feb 1,2009. Photo by Dan Dalt...
Myself leading the crux on Slippery When Wet, 1/11...
Leading the crux. Feb. 02, 2007.
By kevin donald
Nov 15, 2004
I believe the first ascent of this fine little climb was around 1975 by Kevin Donald and Duncan Ferguson while looking for routes to climb with International Alpine School students. However Rusty Bailley (sp) was living in Montrose at the time and he had an appetite for ice as well, so who knows?
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 9, 2011
Seems easier to just do this as one long pitch.
Feb 9, 2012
60m rope comfortably gets you all the way to the tree from the road. One double rope rappel or two single ones (there is an intermediate above the first ice bulge) will get you down.
By Ryan Bracci
From: San Juan Capistrano, CA
Dec 30, 2015
This can also be done in 3 pitches. If you break up the bottom into two pitches, you can continue from the second anchors at the ledge up the gully to a tree. There are two trees at the top with rap rings. The 3rd pitch is thin in spots (at least in late December 2015), but screws can be placed in good spots. I was told there was a spot for a cam or nut on this pitch, but I never saw any place for them.