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Waffle, The T 

Slippery Nipple 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Glen Schuler and Lou Kalina, 1992
Page Views: 1,593
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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The view from the top of Slippery Nipple.

Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Slippery Nipple starts in the yellow wall about 20 feet to the right of the black face with the bolted line, Not Even. A corner system can be laybacked and protected with small wires or cams for 30 feet. Exit the lay back to a sub-vertical face and half a dozen bolts. Fine, thin, edge climbing for close to 50 feet will gain a double bolt anchor. The climbing here feels a lot like Devil's Head with continuous moves that never really deliver a distinct crux. Two stars for the excellent stone, good continuity, great sun, and an introduction to Thunder Ridge.

Protection 

QDs and some thin camming gear. This route heads directly for a double bolt anchor at 75 feet.


Photos of Slippery Nipple Slideshow Add Photo
The NIPPLE is a hard one (for the grade). Photo by David Russell.
The NIPPLE is a hard one (for the grade). Photo by...
Glenn Schuler on his very own SLIPPERY NIPPLE. Photo by David Russell.
Glenn Schuler on his very own SLIPPERY NIPPLE. Pho...
Brandon is at the first bolt (with three cam placements below). Photo by Glenn Schuler.
BETA PHOTO: Brandon is at the first bolt (with three cam place...
Climbers on Undertow (L) and Slippery Nipple (R) on a beautiful Autumn day.
Climbers on Undertow (L) and Slippery Nipple (R) o...

Comments on Slippery Nipple Add Comment
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By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route was put up by myself and Lou Kalina. When mixed with beer, those slimy little shots make for one mean hangover. Lou and I were feeling the pain that day.
This is one of my favorite warm-ups at T-Ridge - good rests, not too steep but hard enough to get your attention.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 30, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I don't know if holds have broken, but I would only recommend this as a warmup to an ex. Definite crux moves after the third bolt with a guaranteed slab fall is you blow it. Still an awesome route on great stone. Classic.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

you will def hit that slab pretty hard if you blow the move to the bolt. a bit spicy for sure.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2010

Agreed about the hitting the slab if you blow it before that bolt. I doubt this is an 11 though, compared to the rest of the routes in this area at least.
By vdzsteaz
From: Denver, CO
Oct 3, 2011

This one gave me a run for my money. 10+/11-.