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Unsorted Routes:

Slipper Queen 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 9, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Le Do demonstrates how to clip.

Description 

This is a fine route on the clean plaque of rock that the approach trail hits when it reaches the cliff (far left side of Contest Wall). It starts just to the left of a rotten chimney and cave. Slipper Queen has a 15 foot high first bolt guarded by very easy climbing. The hard climbing begins at the 3rd bolt, and is fairly sustained to the anchors. The crux is fairly tricky since it requires a long move to a crimp that is very difficult to see from below.

Good route, but probably not deserving of the "4 star" rating it gets in the new Knapp guidebook.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor


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By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 22, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Beautiful route! First clip is high, but don't be scared - it's pretty easy ground to it. The key to sending is to go left; and when you can't go left anymore, go left some more.