Slippage 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Errett Allen on Sep 1, 2003 |
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Starting up the 5.9+ / 5.10a crux.
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Find the break in the long roof band to the right of the Batrachian Slab route. A brushy chimney descends from below this break. Scramble up to a pine tree to the right of this chimney that is about 60-70 feet off the deck and belay from this tree.
P1: Ascend easy face cracks and face above the tree toward the roof band and clip an old manky bolt. Diagonal up and left above the bolt to the left of two short cracks, ascend the crack -- 5.9, then step right, up and back left -- 5.10a on face holds. Do a few more moves up a thin edge/crack -- R and step left into an easy crack. In order to get off in one more pitch, stretch the rope out up this crack and belay high.
P2: Ascend the easy crack and where it ends, do an easy traverse right into another easy crack. Follow the second crack to a ramp with a pine tree, then traverse up and right over easy ground to the east ridge descent slabs.
Protection Tiny/small stoppers and small TCUs. Some larger cams & stoppers will be handy for the belay anchor and easy second pitch.
By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jun 22, 2011
| I retreated when I saw the bail biner and rotten webbing on rusted 1/4 bolt and blank faces above.
On the first pitch above the large tree, there are a bunch of loose large rocks just waiting to go, actually a fall on the bolt (and assuming it held) may place the climber in a position to dislodge these rocks and kill your belayer.
The position of the route on this rock face is pretty cool, though. |
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