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Unsorted Routes:

Slip Stream 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,386
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Slip Stream, this shows most of the first 30ft or ...

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Description 

A devious climb with a tough start, Slip Stream is a true sandbag for its 5.6 rating in the DCA. Excellent protection makes up for committing moves in some sections, especially down low. This is NOT a good choice for a beginning leader.

Start at a crack in a right-facing corner. Move up and left to a left-facing corner, then continue up to mantel onto a slopy ledge. Continue up the face, passing the Bubble Bath anchors on your right, to finish at anchors at the top of the cliff.


Location 

Starts 10' left of Bubble Bath.


Protection 

Small to medium gear -- nuts, cams, hexes. Bolted anchors



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By jeffinatlanta
From: Smyrna, Ga.
Dec 26, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I've seen 5.10 leaders freak on the first 30 ft. of this climb. Best to move along if you're really looking for a 6.

By Joey Wolfe
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This climb is stiffer than the guide book , but the crux of the climb is right off the ground. spot the leader and then it is a cruise to the top.

By charlie collins
Sep 24, 2007

Even though it a slight sandbag, don't miss it. The gear is great all the way and if you go to the left most anchors by climbing almost straight up the steeper face, the belay spot is really nice place to enjoy. The face section has big positive holds.

By Justin Dansby
From: GA
Mar 31, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

Instead of stopping and using the Bubble Bath anchors, continue up the easy face and to the anchors at the very top. You can also get to these anchors from the top of Jams and Shams and setup TR.

By TKHouse
Dec 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Although the start might be a bit of a challenge, 5.6 would be fairly consistent with other Chattanooga crag ratings (T-Wall comes to mind...).

Very well protected, great climb for the beginner leader to practice some rope drag management as well.

Take it all the way to the top as well, fantastic view!

By Geissler Golding
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

In a way I'm kind of glad I didn't read all the comments before I climbed this as it may have made me think there was some hidden difficulty I couldn't see... True the first 2 or 3 moves are non-trivial but with a little patience you can slot a good piece for protection and move through. In the end, I'd suggest you look at the start for yourself and call it at that time.

I found the route quite enjoyable and the spice at the bottom certainly helps the overall flavor! Only thing I regret is not having taken my small and medium hexes...

By Cres Simpson
From: Birmingham, AL
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

The bottom part of this climb is pump-y to protect which was very surprising for a 5.6 -- that said, I don't think the moves actually go at any harder than 5.7 if you're not pumping out trying to place gear.

Still agree with above -- not a good choice for a novice leader.