Slip Silly (aka Forgotten Crack)  5.10a R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Matt Albrecht & Steve Orr, 12/90 Submitted By:  Tony B on Dec 29, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route might be called "forgotten crack", but I doubt anyone who leads it will forget it soon thereafter. The 'S' rating I have assigned is for the dubiousness of the rock and placements I made, protecting the crux climbing. The route is short enough that you could hit something if a placement failed.That said, the moves are fun and unique and this lead is a decent time-passer if you are solid at the grade and confident of your ability to judge the rock quality there.

On the "Back" of Billboard Buttress, where Billboard faces Bilbo, you will see a ramp leading up and right (north) for 20' to a crack system, which can be climbed to the top of the rock. Do it. Be wary of gritty stone and some potentially bad placements along the way.

Protection 

A standard set of cams. A few big units might go in near the bottom to avoid trusting lesser pro (bad rock & flares) later.