|The Red Slab
|Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
This is the leftmost bolted line on the Red Slab, left of an ugly trad gully/chimney. It starts on a ledge under an overlap with a 5.10 move. This overlap was originally protected by a funky #1 cam serving up an "R" rated start. Now it sports a beefy bolt on the lip. Work up left along a flake/ledge system until three bolts run straight up the face. The technical crux comes at the last bolt, and is thin and slippery, but well protected.
Four bolts to a two bolt anchor.
|By Jeff Lockyer|
From: Canmore, AB
Sep 16, 2001
Nice route. Make sure not to fall slipping 3rd bolt, otherwise you have a groundfall ! The crux is very well defined, but can be eased by headingleft if you don't like the 11a move. (which is an excellent move) Spot the left hand sidepull and right hand crimp to get your feet up and finish this route off. I would give the route 2 stars as well. The route perhaps could go straight up and be 2 different routes in this case, something to try on toprope.
Jul 9, 2008
I don't really agree that there is ground fall potential clipping the 3rd bolt, it looks pretty clean to me and the climbing through this section is 5.8. i don't think using the left hand sidepull is off route at all, using it doesn't make the crux easier than an 11-.
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
From 4th bolt to the anchors is exciting, thin face moves to sloper finishing holds, 15-20' ride if you blow the finish.
The anchors are looking really rough, they could really use an updated set.