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Slime of the Century 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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  • This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Sustained climbing and sometimes slick at the begining if it has been raining. Apparently there is a small TCU placement up high on the route, but I've never seen it. I've only toproped it, but it looked very well bolted. This is one of my (and Tony Mayse's) favorite refuge climbs!

    Seems almost like 2 distinct climbs. Starts out with slopey liebacks and strenous (for me) underclings then goes to classic edging crimpers for the second half.


    Location 

    Immediately left and uphill of "Rap Bolters from Hell"


    Protection 

    Good Bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can double rap down.



    Comments on Slime of the Century Add Comment
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    By furrymurry
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 9, 2007
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

    The cam placement (yellow alien size) is after the final bolt in the horizontal, flaring crack that is somewhat of a resting hold. It is not entirely necessary, but if you skip it you do get a little ways above that last bolt for the final crux.