Slim Shady 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | S. Mish |
| Submitted By: | Mike on Jun 8, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Darkstar is the wide crack on the left.
Slim Shad...
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Description Follow thinning crack in corner to a bulgy crux up high, then up and right to chains. The direct finish (up then right instead of right then up) is solid 10+ish.
Location Downstream on West Wall in Shady Grove. Thin crack in corner just right of The Winsloner & Darkstar.
Protection Lots of thin cams & nuts up to a #2 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Thin crack in corner in the center of the pic.
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By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| this is the 10 to try if you dont lead 10 on gear.... it is at least a number grade easier than stick it, which is legit 10, IMHO. you can get a blue camalot in dark star before committing to the slim shady crack, and you can get a 00mastercam up high and right during the easy but run out traverse to the anchors, though it is probably moral support only. nice climb! |
By Sun2Stone
From: Phoenix,AZ
Sep 19, 2011
| I Tr'd the route, nice, thin fingers and shallow placements. |
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